Tell us a bit about your studio… when and how did you set it up?
I set up Florence Spurling Studio in 2014 during my time living in NYC. After working on the Anthropologie design team, I wanted to embrace a slower, more considered method of working that was more akin to how I had been trained at the Royal College of Art, in London. During this time, I started to become more interested in the hand knitting world and began designing contemporary hand knitting patterns that embrace my love of colour, texture and pattern. I also teach virtual and in-person workshops that complement the designs, which allows me to travel around the globe doing what I love.
Your work incorporates traditional techniques and materials, how important is it to you to keep traditional craftmanship alive?
I’ve always loved making things by hand – I find it extremely mediative and addictive to see a piece of fabric grow. Knitwear design is the perfect marriage between creativity and technical prowess – it requires constant reinvention and reinterpretation of traditional techniques for a fresh look, but you need a certain level of skill to be able to achieve this. This element of never-ending learning is so inspiring to me. I believe that skilled handwork will always continue to be admired and sought after, even more so with the rise of technology.
How is the world of knitted textiles embracing a sustainable future? What are the challenges?
Knitting is one of the most sustainable textile methods as you can shape the fabric to the exact desired measurements, eliminating the need to cut and discard excess fabric. Hand knitting is the definition of slow fashion – a garment may take months to knit, depending on how much time you have to dedicate to it. If looked after well, it will last a lifetime. Whether you are knitting something yourself, or purchasing knitwear in a shop, consider the fibre type and its environmental implications. Fast fashion and mass-produced knitwear typically uses a mix of unsustainable production methods and materials, so I would encourage purchasing fewer, better quality pieces.
Which designers or creators have influenced your work the most?
I try not to borrow from other designers and creators, but I do enjoy visiting shops and brands I resonate with for market research. The Toast store in Westbourne Grove is really inspiring for its colours and fabrications and I admire Sézane’s ability to mix ‘craft’ with wearability. When designing, I aim to create pieces that are both enjoyable to knit and to wear, and so I love seeing what people on the street are wearing and how they are styling things.
Where else do you draw inspiration?
I’m endlessly inspired by textiles themselves, particularly folk embroidery patterns which I often develop into Fair Isle knitting. I have always adored detail and embellishment and have a large library of knitting and textile books that I draw from.
You recently moved back to West London from New York, any favourite places to visit around your home in Holland Park?
Holland Park has felt incredibly zen compared to the hustle and bustle of Manhattan! I love going for walks through the park with a delicious coffee from Melt Chocolates and you can’t beat a Sunday roast at the Ladbroke Arms. There lots of lovely independent shops like Hop Like a Bunny for adorable childrenswear and Otiumberg for gorgeous jewelry.
Huge congratulations on recently becoming a mother. How do you balance all that new motherhood entails with running your own business?
Thank you! It’s not been easy – I had naively imagined plenty of free time to knit while my little one slept, but in reality, I have barely picked up my knitting needles! I have managed to teach several workshops though which has been lovely. I’m taking things slow right now and cherishing the time with my baby, knowing that the work will be there waiting, when we are ready.
