What they say…
‘Fulham neighbourhood pub, Brown Cow recently reopened following a complete refurbishment. Part of The Liberation Group who operate over 130 pubs in South England, London and the Channel Islands, The Brown Cow sits within their eclectic Butcombe Pubs and Inns collection which pride themselves on their award winning food and drink offering. The reopening will usher in a new era for Brown Cow which will welcome a fresh look, and taste. The introduction of an all day offering means Brown Cow will now be able to welcome people from morning until night, with dining and drinking options reflecting the time of day.’
The style
The bright and spacious corner property on Fulham Road has a lively atmosphere to match it’s eclectic interiors. Earthy tones meet hanging plants, ancient books and ikat lampshades. It’s like a cosy and well-put-together bohemian home.
To drink
My husband begins with a perfectly seasoned Bloody Mary. We’ve been together for ten years and I think I can count the number of times he hasn’t sent one back or asked for extra Tabasco on one hand – his approval is endorsement indeed. It’s July, but the weather is giving ‘February’ so we embrace the situation and opt for a house Malbec and a natural Côte du Rhone. There is also a tempting-looking cocktail list, with some non-alcoholic options.
To eat
We begin with a calamari to share, I’m always tempted by the idea of this dish but more often than not, let down by the reality. I’m pleased to report that on this occasion, this is not the case! Lightly battered, tender pieces are served with a sweet and spicy Asian sauce with a good amount of zing!
As it’s the depths of rainy season, aka July in London… we both choose roasts. My husband picks the beef and I, the porchetta. Having recently returned from a holiday in Italy and consumed my weight in the stuff, I am (for now at least) something of an aficionado. And the porchetta here at Brown Cow certainly gives the Umbrian iteration a run for its money; it is beautifully herby, generously seasoned and topped with crispy crackling. The roasts are served with verdant greens, a hunky Yorkshire pud, crispy parsnips, a thick pool of gravy and pretty decent roast potatoes. My husband’s beef is delightfully tender and comes with the same accompaniments and a spicy dollop of horseradish.
For dessert, we switch back to summer M.O and order the grilled peaches with Chantilly cream and thyme and a trio of mini Biscoff-filled donuts. The peaches are heaven indeed and the donuts, perfectly crisp.
The crowd
Clearly at the heart of the community, Brown Cow is thrumming with chatting locals. Couples, families, Dachshunds, Miniature Dachshunds, Frenchies, a Weimeraner puppy, did I mention that this is the place for tiny dog watching?
In a nutshell
Looking for a reasonably priced, well-cooked roast in pleasant surroundings? Look no further. But do also come on a weeknight to try the rest of the menu, because if the starter and desserts are anything to go by, the chefs here know their way around a flavour or two.
Brown Cow, 676 Fulham Road, Fulham, London, SW6 5SA
