A historic pub in one of London’s most desirable postcodes – The Punchbowl, which was once owned by Guy Ritchie and his famous American wife at the time, has recently been refurbished and taken over by Bristol’s Butcombe Brewery. Located at the business end of Farm Street, a mere hop and a skip from Annabel’s, this traditional London thoroughfare couldn’t be less ‘farmy’ if it tried.
There’s a new focus on food. The Punch Bowl now offers ‘a completely new menu dedicated to Modern British cuisine’ and dining ‘starts with breakfast…’ and continues through lunchtime and dinner, serving ‘seasonal dishes that champion the best British suppliers’.
Entry to the dining room above known as ‘Judy’s’, is through the ancient pub. I’s buzzing with drinkers on an Autumnal Thursday evening, but we’re warmly greeted by a pair of young and energetic stuff, who usher us up the creaky old staircase.
Style
Nicely decorated with comfortable velvet-covered banquettes and a leafy wallpaper, the pub is crammed with delightful vintage oil paintings in crumbly gilt frames. The lighting is a little too bright – I spot a dimmer on the wall opposite and I’m itching to ask the staff to turn it down, but resist temptation and take off my glasses to compensate.
To drink…
I’m drinking for ‘none’ so my husband picks up my slack, ordering a crisp Sancerre to accompany his fishy starter and a fruity Puglian
Primitivo to complement his meaty main.
To eat…
My husband orders the scallops, which arrive perfectly cooked and swimming/drowning/scuttling (not sure of the correct verb to describe how shellfish get about) in pools of salty, garlicky butter. I opt for the Prawn Cocktail – which thanks to the Old Bay Seasoning was super tasty, but not huge. I don’t know it yet, but this will turn out to be a blessing.
Because… for my main course, I chose the Pork Schnitzel, which arrives… the size of a hubcap. Being 7 months pregnant and already full of baby, I know I’m barely going to make a dent in it, but I tuck in with gusto and what I manage is crisp, succulent and delicious. I do notice that the business man sitting next to me, does get through it, so it’s possible I’m being a bit pathetic.
My husband orders the Beef Cheek and Bone Marrow Pie, which arrives complete with a hunk of vertebrae sticking out the top. It’s a proper pie, with a full shortcrust surround and no soggy bottom. It quickly becomes apparent (when he closes his eyes) that he’s in pie heaven and adds that the last time he had a pie ‘this perfect’ was at St John. Praise indeed.
Given that we’ve both already eaten enough to feed a small army, you won’t be surprised to hear that we stagger, quite cautiously, towards the dessert menu. We manage a Treacle Tart which effortlessly straddles the two disparate worlds of ‘crisp’ and ‘moist’ and comes topped with a perfect quenelle of clotted cream.
In a nutshell…
The Punchbowl is a great spot for a weeknight dinner or a Sunday roast- Judy’s is a cut above the typical pub setting and the quality of the ingredients and impressive wine list, elevate the experience further still.
Details
41 Farm Street, Mayfair, London W1J 5RP
