The Credentials:
There he stood, one eyebrow cocked suggestively, beautifully attired, clearly a wealthy aristocrat and disarmingly handsome—it was love at first sight and the first tantalising hint of a fabulous evening to come. Then I realised it was just his portrait and the man himself (Lord Ellenborough) had died in 1871. Bother! But at least I can stay in his wonderful house.
Ellenborough Park gets its name from Lord Ellenborough, former Governor-General of India, who married the beautiful, much younger Jane Digby in 1824. His adventurous young wife soon earned a scandalous reputation for adultery. They divorced and she moved on to an Austrian prince, a Bavarian king, an Albanian brigand general and later, a much younger Bedouin Sheikh. What a gal! If I were Lady Jane, I would have stayed put at magnificent Ellenborough Park and skipped the desert experience. Apart from anything else, Ellenborough Park does great cream teas!
Award-winning Ellenborough Park was originally called Southam House and is a grand, mainly 15th century, Grade II listed building, with an array of turrets, towers and arches in fifty shades of creamy Cotswold stone. It balances sophistication and homeliness perfectly, with its impressive oak beams, Tudor stone fireplaces and Oriel stained glass windows, as well as a snug minstrels’ gallery overlooking the Great Hall.
Three outbuildings now provide additional bedrooms and some have ‘dog friendly’ suites. A relaxing spa is situated in the main house, with India reflected in its décor and treatments. There is also a fully equipped gymnasium in the grounds and a year-round 30 degree outdoor pool.
Dine:
The triple AA-Rosette-winning restaurant’s Head Chef is the talented David Kelman. He focuses on giving creative twists to modern British dishes made from locally sourced produce. For three years running, David has been awarded ‘Chef of the Year’ at the Taste of Gloucestershire Food and Farming Awards.
Having wandered around the grounds until the winter sun set, we went for pre-dinner drinks in the Great Hall, before being ushered into the panelled Beaufort Dining Room for a veritable feast of flavours and textures. My friend was won over by the starter of honey sweet figs, which had salty, air-dried ham at the core and were accompanied by cubes of surprisingly juicy turnip. My main was the perfectly tender 28-day Hereford cross beef fillet and braised blade, served with creamed winter truffle potato puree that simply melted in the mouth. The tomato fondue and King Brown mushroom accompaniment provided a tasteful and textural contrast.
The hotel’s cellar houses a selection of over 300 different wines, ranging in price from £25.50 to £5000 a bottle. I guess the latter is to be opened after a particularly lucky win at the races!
Sleep:
The hotel sports a range of bedrooms and suites, named with racehorses and horse races in mind. Our comfortable, country-style twin room (situated in the Ellenborough Gate outbuilding), was peaceful, light and airy with a comfortable lounge area. We stayed in winter but the private patio overlooking fields and the racecourse beyond would be a delightful place to sit and relax on a summer’s evening.
The twin beds were very comfortable, with light feather duvets and crisp, Egyptian cotton sheets. Padding barefoot across the heated bathroom floor for a rainforest shower or bath with local Noble Isle toiletries was a joy.
On the subject of ‘joy’, we sneaked a peep at ‘The Istabraq suite’, which is tucked away high in the eaves of the Great Hall. Its plethora of dark oak beams, imposing bed and sparkling bathroom (with roll-top bath and palatial shower) make it a great choice for honeymooners.
Who goes there?
Clearly this hotel is perfect for Cheltenham racegoers and those seeking an English countryside sports and/or relaxation experience with great food and surroundings. It could also suit spa friends or couples seeking a romantic break. Despite its year-round outside pool (30 degrees), this peaceful hotel is geared towards grown-ups and is less suited to those with very young families. Children under eight years old are welcome to eat in the Brasserie but not in the more formal Beaufort Dining Room.
Out & about:
Ellenborough Park is only two open fields away from the full buzz of Cheltenham Racecourse. On race days, you can forget traffic jams and head straight off across the fields to the races as a passenger in one of the hotel’s Land Rovers, or you can amble across if you prefer. When the races finish, you can be driven back to the hotel bar in just five minutes, celebrating your wins or drowning your sorrows in style.
There is also Clay Pigeon shooting available and, as the hotel is situated at the foot of Cleeve Hill (the highest viewpoint in the Cotswolds), it is a good base for walkers. If you haven’t brought the right clothing or footwear with you, just drop into the Boot Room and they will kit you out.
The worst thing:
We arrived in rain! However, we were escorted, beneath large hotel umbrellas, to our room in one of the outbuildings. Luckily the rain stopped before dinner and in no way dampened our enjoyable stay.
The best thing:
We loved the unpretentious staff. The Head Porter was generous with his time and was knowledgeable about the history of the house. The Head Waiter too was delightful, with a great sense of humour!
