The Blurb
Alto, Selfridges, has just unveiled its new La Dolce Vita summer concept, reminiscent of the Italian Riviera, and I am here for it.
A private lift on the ground floor of the building, covered in a bright floral arch, takes you to the rooftop. You then enter an immersive walkway lined with lemon trees and Italian beach-town scenes. The walkway from the lift itself is a completely uplifting experience, with Instagram-worthy photo opportunities across a long archway lined with Mediterranean greenery. It’s always going to be a mood boost to arrive via such spectacle – just like a red carpet or a key change in a 90s pop song, there’s a reason this stuff works.
The DJ booth set up in the corner is actually giving soft Ibiza vibes (more on that later), but it never becomes so intrusive that dinner feels like an obstacle to the DJ set. On the hot day of my visit, the terrace feels particularly Mediterranean. The tables are protected by the shade of trellises, but we’re on the edge of the rooftop, and the sun still has access to my table. Thankfully, a decent breeze from the air con keeps things comfortable.
The other thing that strikes you is just how naturally Alto fits into Selfridges. This isn’t somewhere that only comes to life at 7pm. Visitors drift in throughout the day, families appear, shopping bags are checked, and cocktails arrive as if you’d just wandered off the beach onto your favourite hotel bar.
The Food & Drink
I go for a non-alcoholic cocktail, as we’re visiting during the day, and I’ve finally accepted that I’m not a candidate for day drinking. The Aria cocktail is fantastic and tastes uncannily like an Aperol Spritz (the most ‘holiday’ of all drinks in my opinion). It’s less sparkling, perhaps, but in spite of that, you could have fooled me.
There is, of course, an extensive wine and cocktail list that I will have to go back and try on an evening (safe to say, given the place’s vibe, abstaining is particularly difficult on this occasion).
The food is ordered in the style of tapas, shared Italian classic dishes dressed for a summer jaunt.
We start with the Carpaccio di Manzo. A generous amount of shaved truffle gives the dish an extravagant air, and the rocket sits amongst it like a little forest, hiding the carpaccio beneath, laced with a mascarpone middle – it does not disappoint.
We also go for the burrata, which arrives on a bed of tangy, oily tomatoes. It’s a solid staple and a particular favourite of mine. Though it is a little hard in the middle, it’s creamy and delicious, with vibrant tomatoes and enough seasoning to make the whole thing disappear rather quickly.
The Ravioli Tartufo and Pecorino was another matter entirely. My dinner guest took one bite and announced that it was ‘unbearably good’, looking like they might burst into tears. Rich, indulgent and truffly, it’s the sort of dish that makes you briefly resent the portion size. There were three pieces, which was probably for the best, given the immense richness of the dish and amount of food still to come, but we are nevertheless sad to see them go.
We then have the Grigliata Mista di Carne mixed grill, as recommended by our server, Arshad, in order to try a bit of everything from that side of the menu. The sausage is particularly impressive: dense, meaty, salty and incredibly flavourful. We had agreed to go Dutch on the meal, but with a particular carnivorous preference, my companion steals the majority of my half of the sausage.
The penne arrabbiata is another reliable staple and is available as a vegan and gluten-free dish, while the insalata di avocado, essentially bricks of tomato and avocado in a light dressing, is a nice, light addition to the rest of the meal.
We do find room for dessert, but opt to keep our choices, both pistachio-themed, mainly to ourselves. The pistachio tart is remarkably firm, with an almost cheesecake-like consistency, and mercifully not too sweet. Instead, it pushes the pistachio flavour forward for a rich, creamy finish. The pistachio tiramisu, by contrast, is creamy, spongy, moist and considerably sweeter. Unusually, the biscuits are left dry and uncoated in coffee, which I have to say, I did miss. However, I understand the choice, as the dish just doesn’t need it. If you’re one for indulgently creamy, flavourful cake offerings, then this one is for you.
And then there was Arshad, our server, who deserves a special mention. His recommendations were excellent, and good service is particularly valuable in a restaurant with this much traffic, choice and atmosphere.
In a Nutshell
The restaurant’s summer terrace is ultimately a fairly clever piece of escapism. You are still in Selfridges, still surrounded by shoppers and still only a few floors above Oxford Street, but for a couple of hours, it feels like you’re somewhere in the Mediterranean.
If you’re looking for good-quality Italian food and, more importantly, an immersive escape for an afternoon or evening, I’d highly recommend a trip to Alto before the heatwaves are no more.
Alto x Cotton Beach Club Residency
The Italian Riviera-inspired terrace is the main summer concept at Alto, but if you fancy taking the Ibiza influence a step further, Alto is also bringing a little White Isle magic to two special events. In collaboration with Cotton Beach Club Ibiza, the limited two-date pop-up will take place on Saturday 29th August and Saturday 26th September, from 4pm into the evening. Expect an exclusive menu combining Alto’s Italian dishes with Cotton Beach Club favourites, plus roaming caviar, cannoli and Sgroppinos – essentially, a little slice of Ibiza in the heart of London.
The Details
Alto by San Carlo, Selfridges, Oxford Street, W1A 1AB
Open 12-10pm from Monday – Saturday, and 12-8pm on Sundays
You can book the Beach Club Residency HERE.
