The Burb
Situated on the banks of the Thames, a short stroll from the handsome (if structurally questionable) Hammersmith Bridge, Sam’s Riverside boasts one of the loveliest views in West London. The terrace is perfectly placed for a spot of early-evening people-watching because in summer, this paved stretch of river path comes alive with joggers, drinkers, diners and aimless meanderers, keen to make the most of the season’s balmy evenings. And tonight, my friend and I are amongst them. Pressed summer dresses, half a face of make-up and heaps to catch up on, we’ve deftly run the gauntlet of ‘two-year-old bedtime’ to celebrate what is to be, her first night out since the birth of her second child.
We’re surprised to see how busy Sam’s is, especially considering it’s August – surely half of West London has decamped to their villa in Provence? Surprising then, that our server should notice we’re giving off an air of ‘haven’t been out in a while’. Because we’ve barely taken our seats before she sweeps over and insists we kick off the evening with a glass of champagne and some oysters. I’m afraid to say, that we don’t put up much of a fight.
The Style
Falling in suit with it’s Anglo/Bistro culinary influences, decor-wise, Sam’s reads as: contemporary brasserie with a touch or glamour. Turquoise marble, fluted dark-wood panelling and their signature hanging florals give the dining room height and texture. Large, factory-style windows make the best of the views, whilst tan leather chairs, café-style seating, cosy booths and generous dining tables give the room a relaxed, organic feel. By day, the space is bright and breezy, but after sundown, warm and flattering lighting dials up the ‘intimacy factor’
To Eat
We begin with six Carlingford oysters. Plump and briny, these are the favourites amongst the regulars for Sam’s Riverside’s Oyster Happy Hour, where guests can enjoy £2 oysters Monday to Friday between 5pm and 6.30pm.
Then comes the sea bream crûdo, a beautifully delicate plate of translucent sliced fish with melon, citrus, pickled fennel and cucumber. The taste is bright and fresh – citrus and pickle, cutting through the buttery flesh of the bream. Our other starter is the ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers – golden, crispy little parcels with creamy and fresh centre – ‘tis the season, after all.
For my main, I stick with the sea and opt for the lobster roll and chips. It is generous, indulgent and satisfyingly messy: I end up covered in garlicky mayo. My companion chooses the classic bistro pairing of steak served with an oozy, glossy béarnaise sauce.
We finish with shared soufflé, which takes about ten minutes, but who’s in a hurry? If anything, it’s an opportunity to eke out the child-free evening a little longer. The soufflé arrives all puffed up like a peacock with just the right amount of drama to bring the curtain down with rapturous applause.
To Drink
We start with the afore-mentioned glasses of Pommery Brut Royal NV, the house Champagne. Then move swiftly onto a Gavi di Gavi Cà da Bosio Vite Colte. It is crisp, refreshing and the perfect match for our seafood-heavy selections.
In a nutshell
Sam’s is clearly a favourite with the locals, and there are plenty of regulars here too who have popped in for a weekly meal. But it is, at the same time, equally adept at rising to the occasion, especially when the occasion is one that might otherwise go uncelebrated.
It’s a beautiful and balmy evening, so we stroll home along the river, passing a bench at Furnivall Gardens dedicated to the late ‘Audrey Ada Southam 1916–2005’. We don’t know much about her, but are delighted to spot an inscription which reads: ‘I have been sat on all my life, why stop now?’ We chuckle… it feels oddly apt for this particular phase of motherhood. But for tonight at least… we don’t feel sat on. We’ve had a decadent night off and have sat down longer than we have in weeks. And when you’re in the depths of these busy, early years… that feels like a celebration in itself.
The details
1 Crisp Rd, London W6 9DN
