The Blurb
Sumosan Twiga is a Knightsbridge staple. Known for serving Japanese and Italian dishes, the brand can be found in hotspots all around the world including Moscow, Dubai, Courchevel, Berlin, Montenegro, and Monaco.
The Style
Set on one of London’s boujiest blocks with Chanel and La Perla for neighbours, Sumosan Twiga is not lacking in the style department. From the black-and-gold doors to the curving townhouse-style staircase garlanded in faux flowers, the restaurant makes quite an entrance, and things only get better from there. Set over three floors, the lush interiors come care of Michele Bönan (well known for the Italian-chic J.K. Place properties); the highlight of which is the main dining room, with black-and-white photography, retro-inspired piped chairs, and a DJ. The vibe is not-too-serious but definitely upscale.
The Crowd
On a recent Thursday night, the crowd was a mixed bag: a multigenerational family group; an Instagram couple spending more time on their phones than talking to each other; a table with six kids all under six; and a group of glamorous girlfriends who were very Knightsbridge. Everyone—including the kids—seemed to be having a good time though, and it was packed—which is always a good sign.
The Food
Sumosan Twiga often gets billed as a Japanese-meets-Italian fusion restaurant. This is not the case: Sumosan Twiga serves Japanese food and Italian food—there is no fusion. I found the juxtaposition a bit jarring: rich tomato gnocchetti served at the same time as delicate, wasabi-tinged sushi? It made me feel like I was at a mall food court. This isn’t to say the food is bad; on the contrary, every dish had its own merits. I loved the crunch and zinging hit of the wasabi prawns with juicy mango and golden passion fruit salsa, and the burrata with datterino tomatoes was bright, punchy, and fresh—if a bit uninteresting. However, I did really enjoy the homemade gnocchetti served with a velvety tomato sauce, precisely because it wasn’t trying to be too interesting. Don’t let the simplicity fool you—this is a stand-out dish. Another favourite was the signature Sumosan chocolate fondant encased in a white chocolate shell with vanilla ice cream.
The Drink
The staff (very graciously) sent over cocktails but then couldn’t tell us what was in them. They were tasty, just not to our personal tastes (too sweet). The wine was chosen for us as well, but this time they didn’t miss the mark: the gorgeously crisp viognier with blossom-bright notes paired well with both the Japanese and Italian dishes.
In a Nutshell
Fun vibes; great scene; slightly unfocused menu—but who’s there for the food?
The Details
165 Sloane St, London SW1X 9QB; 020 3096 0222
