Open Mon–Thu midday–11pm, Fri and Sat midday–11.30pm, Sun 11am–10pm
Royal China has long been known for the quality of its dim sum, with queues regularly forming at the Queensway branch at weekends. My excuse for this return visit was to check out the recent refurb, although their PR reassured me that their head chefs haven’t changed.
The colour scheme remains the same: black and gold, but the entrance has been cleared, the lighting is brighter, the new glossy panels have a more contemporary design, there are mirrored columns, a gilded sunken ceiling and the partitions have been removed. The lighting hadn’t quite been turned up to stadium-level like you find in some Chinese restaurants but I still felt rather exposed sitting at my large round table: the room had lost its intimacy and atmosphere.
The waiting staff have stayed, dressed all in black, and offering their usual brusque service (although it does improve if you’re a regular). The menu also remains (from what I can remember) but pictures have been added, reminiscent of a tacky touristy venue, which Royal China certainly isn’t. There were Chinese families dining – a sign that the food is authentic.
I started with vegetable spring rolls (£5) and a glass of Bourgogne (£6). The rolls weren’t oily or particularly interesting and the portion wasn’t generous. My friend admitted that his calamari and baby squid with spicy salt (£6.80) was a little greasy and didn’t taste super fresh. We fared much better with mains. My hot pot with Japanese (silken) tofu and vegetables (£12) and ginger baby pak-choi (£9.80) were flavoursome and moreish (I asked for a doggy bag for my leftovers) while the friend’s sautéed beef with chilli and black bean sauce (£9.20, plus steamed rice; £2.80) was ‘melt-in-the-mouth tender.’ You can’t go wrong with finishing with their fresh fruit salad (£4.50) and some oolong tea (£2.80).
