the chelsea brasserie
Chelsea Riverside Brasserie is an 'all-round class act'

Chelsea Riverside Brasserie at Wyndham Grand Hotel

Mon–Sat 11.30am–10.30pm; Sun 11.30am–3pm and 5.30pm–10.30pm

Overlooking the marina of Chelsea Harbour, the interior of Chelsea Riverside Brasserie can only be described as eclectic; walls are clad with paintings, covering everything from John Lennon to country landscapes and we were greeted by a sculpture of a giant shiny green apple with a gold woman sitting within it. The only thing that was offensive was the hexagon-decorated carpet reminiscent of the ‘80s game show Blockbusters.

We indulgently started with a glass of Dom Perignon while choosing our starters. I went for the caramelised golden cross cheese (£9) – tangy goats’ cheese with sweet yet earthy red and yellow beetroot and sugary yet sharp pickled shallots: a total winner. My friend Alex cooed over the pancetta-wrapped rabbit loin (£10.50), which was accompanied with an artichoke puree and creamy prune and almond salsa.

After our starters we took a moment to take in the view – it was dark outside but we still went gooey over the romantically-lit water. We woke from our musing and devoured our mains. I had line-caught Cornish sea bass (£22.50), packed with robust flavours from the garlic mushroom consommé while Alex enjoyed beautifully rich confit rabbit gnocchi (£14.50), buttery with parmesan and pine nuts, lifted with a little orange zest. We both shared sides of confit shallot and wilted kale (£4.50), and French fries (£4.50)

We finished the meal with one of my fave desserts, sticky toffee pudding (£7) served with a brandy snap, caramel sauce and ice cream spiked with ginger. Alex went all out with the dark chocolate fondant (£7) with poached pear, vivid pistachio dust and silky milk ice cream.

An all-round class act – except for that shocking carpet.

Meal for two, including wine and service, approximately £100.

Chelsea Riverside Brasserie at Wyndham Grand Hotel, Chelsea Harbour, London, SW10;; 020 7300 5011

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