The Credentials:
Owned and frequented by Sir Richard Branson, luxury is at the forefront of this chalet’s appeal. With its all-inclusive set-up, guests can feast on the chef’s exquisitely prepared dishes, sample fine wines from The Lodge’s cellar, and enjoy unlimited champagne in the indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis. There’s even a mini ice rink, indoor wave pool and party room, should Verbier’s astounding ski runs bore you. The Lodge is one of the most beautiful chalets in Verbier; nestled at the top of the village it enjoys magnificent views and almost total privacy.
The chalet is normally hired exclusively in winter for up to 18 guests, but for a week or so a year individual rooms can be booked ‘hotel style’.
Dine:
The Lodge has its own chefs who prepare all meals, except lunch if you’re out on the piste. The evening meal is a substantial three-course affair – necessary after a day spent careering down mountains in sub-zero temperatures. Supper is the same for all guests, but any dietary requirements and preferences are taken into account. Freshly cooked snacks were proffered frequently and an appetising spread was ready to greet us whenever we arrived back.
The bar is well-stocked and open 24 hours. The chalet staff top you up when your glass is running low, and if no one’s around to serve, it operates a homely help-yourself system with its wide variety of wines, spirits, and soft drinks.
Breakfast was the pièce de résistance; a huge spread of juices, fruits, yoghurts, meats and cheese was outdone only by a perfectly-executed eggs Benedict. Amy opted for waffles and maple syrup, which, judging by the gusto with which it was devoured, was equally impressive.
Sleep:
The Lodge has many high points, but our room wasn’t one of them. Two single beds had been pushed together to make a double and there wasn’t a huge amount of living space. There wasn’t a TV – which is generally a good thing – but with the all-modern décor it seemed more of an oversight than a judgement call. If you’re accustomed to haute luxury we’d recommend one of the two master suites.
Having said that, you don’t visit The Lodge to languish in a luxurious suite; the rest of the chalet is spacious and comfortable, so there’s really no need to loiter in your bedroom. Our bathroom was spacious, well lit and filled with Cowshed products. Our beds were extraordinarily comfortable – my friend actually pulled up the sheets to name-check the mattress manufacturer and model number – and our room had a snow-drenched balcony with views of white-tipped mountains, clouds, and Verbier below.
The 24-hour driver service was both a godsend and a necessity. Verbier had its highest snowfall for a decade while we were there; even the meticulous Swiss Snow-trains weren’t running and we were the last flight allowed to land. Our train (our snow-train) arrived three hours late due to unprecedented snowfall! Once we arrived at Le Chable, several cars were stuck in holes dug by their own wheels. In short, we needed The Lodge’s sturdy four-wheel drive and sturdy, reassuring driver. Should you venture out to sample Verbier’s legendary nightlife, and you should, their driver will collect you whenever you call.
Who Goes There?:
Both seasoned aficionados and recreational, leisure skiers. The Lodge is great for families with children, or friends and relatives who take the whole lodge for a week or so. With its ice rink for little ones, large open sitting room, children’s books, toys and party room and pool, along with its friendly, smiley staff, The Lodge was definitely conceived with families in mind.
Out & About:
Verbier is small, and there are a couple of bars frequented by everyone during peak season. Farinet is considered the best cocktail bar in town; with live DJs and award-winning mixologists, it’s both a party bar and cocktail-buff hangout. In 2004 it was awarded ‘Best Après Ski Bar Worldwide’ by Which. It seems its awards may have gone to its head however, as it was staffed by several megalomaniacs, relishing the small power granted by access to a till and a vodka bottle. Having said this, it was a fairly civil affair with more than its fair share of the middle-aged tweed and cigar brigade.
The Farm Club has been run by the Berardi brothers for 42 years, and is a long-time favourite of Sloanes, celebrities, Arabs and US businessmen. And, I have on good authority, a very drunk Duchess of York. At the other end of the spectrum, Casbar is the seasonaire’s club of choice and regularly flies in big name DJs. It’s known to be overrun with inebriated chalet girls and gap yah kids.
Fondue in the local restaurants is a treat not to be missed. Our ski instructor informed us that it’s essential to drink copious wine with fondue in order to digest it properly before returning to the slopes. We didn’t argue. Le Rouge is one of the best, and with its ski-in entrance at the bottom of the slopes it’s ideal for a hearty lunch. It is also known as the go-to bar for pre-après-ski; perfect for the first drink of the evening before heading home to take off your skis. It’s also a good call for a shot of Dutch ‘jagar’ courage before attempting a black run. It has excellent staff, indoor fires and hosts long lazy brunches on its terrace.
The Best Thing:
The hospitality shown by The Lodge’s staff was exemplary. Its steaming hot-tub was gloriously relaxing for aching muscles. There’s nothing like sitting back, champagne in hand, snow falling on our noses, hot steam all around, stars twinkling in the night sky, and music cascading from speakers concealed in rocks.
There’s a roaring fire in The Lodge’s sitting room, and a wave machine in the indoor pool. With all meals and drinks included you feel at home, and The Lodge is very good at making you feel at home. They also have extremely competent ski instructors who took us through our paces and held my hand as I tried to remember the basics.
The Worst Thing:
Switzerland is expensive, and Verbier is extortionate. A cheap touristy sweatshirt from a local shop costs upward of £100. And while all drinks are included at The Lodge, expect to pay upwards of £20 for a quencher in the local bars.
How to get there:
Switzerland is well connected by all major, as well as minor airports in Europe. Thanks to the increasing number of flights into Switzerland and cheap flight tickets from the UK, you can limit travel expenses and enjoy luxury in the snow without breaking the bank before you get there. Click for more info on budget airlines uk.
The most scenic and easy route from Geneva airport is the SBB train direct to Martigny. The train station is inside the airport so there’s no need for transfers or maps. At Martigny you simply hop off and wander down the platform to the tiny snow-train, which chugs up the winding mountain to Le Chable – the closest stop to Verbier. Swiss trains are civilised and the views are magnificent. The first-class carriages are warm and comfortable and with lakes and mountains all around, our trip kicked off to a wonderful start.
The Details
Verbier is chic. If you’re not already kitted out with elegant ski apparel we recommend Finches Winter Sports Specialists as your one-stop-shop. From salopettes to designer goggles, it is the largest of the (very few) ski stores within London.
Finches Winter Sports Specialists, 25 Perry Vale, Forest Hill, London, SE23; finches-ski.com
Exclusive use rates for The Lodge in peak season (February to March), based on seven nights exclusive use hire for 18 guests; CHF 96,000–CHF 141,000 (£66,801–£98,115).
You can reserve individual rooms at The Lodge during the winter season if the chalet has not been booked exclusively six weeks prior to your arrival date. Potential guests are advised to contact the reservations team for rates and availability. Three nights in December 2012 per room were priced at CHF 4,200 (£2,923) for a couple.
SBB Trains; www.sbb.ch/en/home.html
The Lodge, Verbier; www.thelodge.virgin.com
