The Credentials:
Perched on a hill overlooking the Eduardo VII Park, St. George’s Moorish Castle and the Tagus River, the Ritz has long been considered Lisbon’s best hotel. It certainly offers everything you would expect from a Four Seasons hotel – fab service, spacious and luxurious rooms, and a top-notch restaurant.
Plus, there’s an award-winning spa, an impressive rooftop gym which includes a Pilates studio and outdoor running track, while the interiors include sumptuous Portuguese tapestries and replica 18th-century furnishings. Most of the 282 rooms boast private terraces; all have imposing marble bathrooms.
Dine:
Sitting on the terrace of Verandah restaurant, we indulged in a varied buffet breakfast – chicken and foie gras quiche, and Portuguese pastries were on offer as well as the more usual offerings – while admiring the park and hotel terrace views.
The seasonal dinner menu features plenty of seafood, grills and a range of Portuguese dishes. My off-the-menu vegetarian order exceeded expectations (admittedly low from a meat-centric city) and accompanying wine (a slightly oaky, minerally Herdade Perigao 2010 reserve) was also my fave of my (admittedly short) city stay.
Sleep:
Our imperial blue-and-gold-decorated Deluxe Room on the 10th floor ticked all the boxes – luxurious furnishings, five-star amenities, gorgeous views and extra touches such as pasteis de nata and a good bottle of port on arrival. We didn’t need to call for an iron and ironing board; we didn’t have to share sinks or L’Occitane products; we had surplus hangers, bottled water, pens…
My only niggle was that with such attention to detail, why charge for internet access – particularly given that the hotel is located in the business district and the classic-could-perhaps-do-with-a-bit-more-fun room interior suggests that it is geared towards business travellers (although the hotel offers family amenities).
Who Goes There?
Mainly business travellers.
Out & About:
Lisbon has distinct diverse neighbourhoods – from clothes-hanging-on-the-line Bairro Alto where you’ll find locals hanging out of their windows to chat to their neighbours to Liberade with its luxury shopping streets and elegant 19th century mansions – so there’s a lot to cram in if you only have a few days.
Jump on one of the century-old wooden trams that still heaves its way among the seven steep hills over what is often named Europe’s most underrated city (number 28 takes you through some of the prettiest areas including the steep medieval Rua das Escolas Gerais and up to São Jorge Castle); check out the haberdashers, herbalists and tailors of baroque Baixa; and admire Belém’s stunning monastery and grandiose river-facing statues, built with the profits of one of the most ostentatious colonial empires in history.
The bar-filled cobbled streets of boho Bairro Alto is the place to start the evening and special mention must go to what must be the city’s most eccentric bar, Chinese Pavillion (89–91 Rua Dom Pedro V; +351 213 424 729). Crammed with Napoleonic, World War I and Russian Revolution memorabilia, it has an old-world charm and some great teas and cocktails.
The Best Thing:
Compliments to the hotel’s chef, Pascal Meynard and the sommelier, Licinio Carnaz.
The Worst Thing:
One word for the building: ugly. Think large, square concrete block. It wasn’t a great first impression. I’m nit-picking, but personally I’d prefer a rooftop bar and/or pool instead of a gym on the rooftop.
The Details:
Rates start at £426 per room per night, on a room-only basis, based on two people sharing, including all taxes on a bed and breakfast basis; www.fourseasons.com/lisbon; 0080 0648 8648
