The credentials:
Ocean Drive—the iconic, neon-lit main street in Miami’s South Beach—has a very noticeable cut-off point, where the small, historic boutique hotels are suddenly replaced by the towering chain resorts that populate the upper regions of SoBe. The Betsy sits right on the dividing line.
Opened in 2009 after a gargantuan restoration effort on the Betsy Ross Hotel (which was itself opened in 1942), the Betsy is the one lasting remnant of pre-war, post-Depression era ‘colonial chic’ architecture on Ocean Drive. It’s as small and charming as any of its neighbours to the south, while retaining the splendour and luxury of those to the north.
‘Colonial chic’ is a fitting term, too—the interior décor and outer façade is like something you’d expect to find in Bombay in the 19th century, not Miami in the 21st. The hotel has a significant literary past, too, which is exemplified in its Writer’s Room—a suite reserved exclusively for writers in residence with the hotel, and open to published poets, writers and other creatives. Otherwise, the hotel also offers a regular line-up of readings, workshops and other cultural programs on almost every day of the week.
From Autumn 2016, the Betsy will additionally be opening a new art deco wing, bringing the total number of guestrooms up to 130 from the current 61, and adding a new restaurant, rooftop pool, library, board room and suites, terraces and bungalows.
Dine:
The hotel’s in-house restaurant, BLT Steak, was named Miami’s best steakhouse in 2014 and offers breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Dinner-wise, expect everything from Kobe beef to locally-caught fish to one of Miami’s best sushi menus, but at a price—nowhere on Ocean Drive is truly inexpensive, and steak rarely is either.
A complimentary American breakfast (sausage, eggs, fries, salad, roasted tomato, toast and fruit) is included in the stay, and is a meal as obscenely plentiful and masterfully prepared as you’d expect from the Americans. There is a real chance you will struggle to come close to finishing it.
Casual food is also served on the hotel’s rooftop Ocean Deck, with views straight out onto the beach and across the sea.
Sleep:
The rooms are cosy, simple and largely kept in line with the rest of the hotel’s design. The beds are as comfortable as you could want and the bathrooms are small yet sleek—the inclusion of a smart screen on the mirror was a particular surprise. All in all, no complaints there.
Where the rooms excel, though, is with their amenities. Even the most basic room will offer up a curated guest library, bath amenities from Malin+Goetz, a walk-in closet and a whole host of things you never think you’ll need until you need them, such as an iron or sewing kit.
Who goes there?
The hotel staff claim that their clientele is of a largely British majority, though I spotted more than a few out-of-town Americans pottering about, too. The Betsy was usually
surprisingly quiet—especially on the Ocean Deck and in the restaurant in non-peak hours, which is a pleasant contrast to the lobby, hotel and bar every night from around 6pm, when the place became considerably more crowded as a result of the music and events taking place in the bar.
Out & about:
Come on, now—it’s Ocean Drive. Grab some cash, put on a colourful outfit and just walk southwards as far as you can go before you eventually cave in and buy a cocktail bigger than your head. There are bars, cafes and restaurants absolutely everywhere in the area, almost all of which are a guaranteed hoot no matter how touristy they are.
For those looking for a more authentic drink, however, try Club Deuce on 14th Street—it’s about a 20 second walk from the Betsy and is a bona fide dive bar, with great bar staff, cheap drinks and some of the most colourful characters I’ve ever seen in a bar in my life.
The worst thing:
The pool view rooms, thanks to the size of the building, do suffer from a slight lack of light, which is a shame. That’s not a huge issue considering how little time anyone in their right mind would be spending in their room during the daytime in Miami, but it’s unfortunate nonetheless.
The best thing:
It’s a tie between the stellar location right across from the beach and minutes away from the most iconic views, best bars and most ridiculous sights in Miami, and the utterly unique décor, which provides an exciting change from the art deco stylings of the rest of Ocean Drive.
Special commendation has to go to the Betsy’s fantastic range of cultural events, too—there’s something on every night, and none of it looked anything but fascinating.
