The Credentials:
Originally built in the 17th century, The Devonshire Arms has been used for hospitality ever since, as part of the Cavendish family’s 30,000 acre Bolton Abbey estate. The Dowager Duchess of Devonshire in fact supervised the most recent major renovation in 1981 and her taste is apparent throughout the decor, not least via the artwork, much of which hails from the Devonshire Collection at Chatsworth.
Today the hotel has 40 uniquely designed bedrooms, conference and banqueting options, two respected restaurants and an attached spa facility worthy of a review in its own right. With the glorious scenery of the Yorkshire Dales all around as well as so much to enjoy inside, it is unsurprisingly a popular destination in the area for both locals and visitors from further afield.
Dine:
The Burlington—soon after my stay to become the first restaurant of 2015 to be awarded four coveted AA rosettes—is the Devonshire Arms’ principal restaurant, run by head chef Adam Smith, formerly at the Ritz London and a 2012 Roux Scholarship winner. I settled down for the tasting menu and wines and wow—was I glad to have made it to Yorkshire.
Proceedings opened very promisingly with the canapés, which included a mini duck burger, beetroot macaroon and avocado mousse on crispy pork skin, the flavours of which were so well judged and moreish that it felt almost a tragedy to finish each of them.
The menu at the table then just went from strength to strength, from a flavoursome, strong barbecue chicken with sweetcorn and lovage, to roast venison and celeriac rolled in ash with poached pear, chestnuts and venison jus. Scallops were almost like fruit on the palate, they and their accompaniments were so complementary and prettily flavoured. A dish of salt-baked carrot, pickled carrot, goats cheese mousse, hazelnuts and truffle mousse had an earthy depth of flavour, by contrast, and a complexity that it was bizarre to think was based primarily on the simple carrot.
Sautéed duck liver with apple puree, compressed apple cubes, and eel seemed to melt in the mouth, while halibut with cauliflower puree, caviar and a champagne sauce was delicately, creamily irresistible. Every course was like a small masterpiece painted onto a plate, your emotions strung between never wanting it to end and curious to know what the next surprise would be.
The food was accompanied by a superlative selection of wines—it was a meal overall of a sophistication and purpose that one rarely encounters, and I could not have asked for more from dinner in any London restaurant. The only flaw with the Burlington is how far away it is from me!
The hotel also has a more informal dining option in the Brasserie, whose colourful upholstery and classic menu I didn’t get a chance to test, but if it is anything like the standards of the rest of the Devonshire Arms it should not disappoint.
Sleep:
My room was in the older—and arguably more characterful—part of the building, and delighted me from the moment I saw the quaint door signage. Inside the room, not to be outdone by my premature hallway joy, was pretty palatial and rich in pleasing details such as the themed artwork. The styling of the accommodation at the Devonshire Arms has had time and thought put into it, and it shows.
The room was well-furnished with a desk, generous sofa, various small tables and chairs and—my favourite—a fantastic, romantic four-poster. That I passed out within seconds every time I even sat on it (making me late for dinner) is testament to its quality. The wardrobe in the room was a little musty and battered, but for me that just added to the charm; it felt like a more opulent version of a guest bedroom at my grandmother’s or a friend’s country house—instantly comfortable, familial despite its elegance.
The bathroom was everything you would expect from a hotel of this calibre, with good pressure in the shower and appealing, sleek fittings. When I arrived on the evening of my stay it was already dark, and I was pleasantly woken the next morning by the sight of styled box hedges between the buildings, the countryside peeking out of the mist beyond.
Who Goes There?
I was one of the younger guests the night I was there, for which I blame timing; I imagine more working couples arrive at the weekends, and the hotel is a sought-after venue option for wedding parties.
The heritage of the Devonshire Arms, plus its facilities and the ever-growing reputation of the Burlington, mean that it is a good destination for more distant visitors looking for a weekend break as well as a popular treat for locals. During my quiet midweek stay there were several groups of Yorkshire natives in the restaurant enjoying the kitchen’s artistry, some planning to put off the journey home with a room for the night as well.
Out & About:
The spa is opposite the hotel building and offers a wide range of treatments in as relaxed and calming an environment as you could hope for. I didn’t get a chance to use the pool, but did luxuriate in a relaxing upper-body massage that almost had me passed out for the night just as I was meant to be at my table.
The Yorkshire Dales envelop the hotel, with Bolton Abbey’s 80 miles of footpaths on its doorstep. You can visit the ruins of the priory, stroll along the banks of the River Wharfe, take in the panoramic views of Ilkley Moor, or drive to the nearby Stump Cross Caverns, one of the foremost cave complexes on show in Britain.
The Devonshire Arms is very dog-friendly, on a related note, and offers grooming, dogsitting for canine companions while you are at dinner, and lists of the best dog-walking opportunities in the area for interested guests. One of the hotel lounges is even dog-themed, from the wallpaper to the paintings and decoration!
The Worst Thing:
That I was there on my own! I wished there was someone to share in my appreciation of the finer details of my stay and meal (and my amazing, enormous four-poster bed. Which I still dream about. In fact I’m glad I didn’t have to share it with anyone!).
If I were to seek out—with difficulty—one hotel-based issue though, there isn’t much lighting on the path across the road from the hotel to the spa. Admittedly it is a very short path, but on a pitch-black winter’s evening it was still enough for me to feel unsure of my footing.
The Best Thing:
How am I to choose between the pitch-perfect food and wines, the unwinding massage, the wonderful interiors, that bed?
In the end, though, the experience is made by the people, no matter how luxurious the surroundings. My stay was as exceptional as it was thanks to the people at the Devonshire Arms; from the impeccably trained and charming maître d’ in the restaurant and Rachel in reception, to the wonderful group of birthday celebrants in the Burlington, who invited me over to their table to close out the evening together with drinking and chatting.
Allan and his friends’ ebullience and openness made the trip feel like a change from London life almost more than anything else, and made it truly memorable. So happy birthday again, Janet—and here’s wishing that we may all have many happy returns to the Burlington and the charming Devonshire Arms.
