The Credentials:
Its book (actually there are three heavy tomes) of ‘golden signatures’ reads like a who’s who of rock ‘n’ roll – Michael Jackson, Coldplay, Jimmy Page and Robert Plant are just a few of the guests to have graced this five-star hotel located in the heart of Old Lyon. Comprising of four connected stone houses dating from the 15th and 16th centuries, its Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Loges, is located at its heart – in an arcaded, glass-covered Renaissance courtyard.
Many of its 61 rooms and suites are decorated like an artist’s atelier. The hanging gardens and the Pure Altitude spa (or even the cellar-level wine bar) are perfect spots for a little R&R. When you want to head out, the three savvy concierges, who each hold a Clés d’Or, will ensure you get the most out of the vibrant city. Gérard, the head concierge, who has been with the hotel for 24 years of its 25-year-history, is a gem.
Dine:
Le Loges was full during our Sunday lunchtime arrival – there’s a two-week booking notice needed for this hotspot. The gorgeous setting is where our breakfast took place although unfortunately the evening restaurant was closed during our Sunday and Monday stay. However, chef Anthony Bonnett also looks after the menu for the brasserie, Café Épicerie. He doesn’t mess around with what people like – some of the dishes have been on the menu for eight years.
We enjoyed seasonal soup (creamy fennel; €9), and Scottish smoked salmon with a homemade lemon cream (€12), which arrived in an old-fashioned jam jar, to start; grilled tuna fish sesame seeds (€23) for main. All mains are accompanied by mash with olive oil and seasonal vegetables. For dessert, we shared a devilishly rich chocolate mousse with hazelnuts and a creamy tiramisu with raspberry jam (both €8 each).
It’s an elegant setting, too – a vaulted ceiling, stone walls, plus a shaded terrace where we enjoyed lunch the following day. Service is a treat – our charming waiter, Stéphane, had just returned from working in Mayfair’s two Michelin-starred The Square.
Sleep:
It wasn’t a room; it was an apartment (and one that I want permanently). Artist Hervé Thibaut had furnished our apartment suite with antiques, embroidered silks and our headboard was literally a work of art. An imposing period fireplace dominated the living room while the bathroom really wowed: a stunning living space with a freestanding bath, a separate shower, and two huge sinks. In contrast, the separate room for the loo with its simple grey walls seemed a little out of place.
Who Goes There?
Other than artists and slebs, a discerning French and an international crowd.
The Best Thing:
There were two stand-outs: the beautiful surrounds and the exemplary service.
The Worst Thing:
My Pure Altitude facial felt nourishing and was gentle enough for my sensitive skin, but the spa’s pool felt too cold and small, plus the relaxation area could do with a little more TLC.
Out & About:
France’s third city and its gastronomic capital boasts 22 Michelin-starred restaurants, but the famous Lyonnaise bouchons come with a cardiac arrest-inducing warning – we had bellyaches the first night.
Wander through the cobbled streets of the old town past colourful buildings, medieval architecture, museums, pretty boutiques and choose a buzzy bistro from which to people-watch. ‘I feel like we’re in the film Amélie,’ my friend noted after we watched a heavily made-up woman singing in the street, plus a silver-suited man, and a group of skateboarders wander into the restaurant where we were dining on Rue Mercière.
Take the funicular up the steep hill to Fourvière, the Basilica and the Roman ruins. Join the crowd inside the more ancient of Lyon’s beautiful churches, Romanesque-Gothic Cathedrale St Jean and see its 14th century astronomical animated clock in motion at midday, 2pm or 3pm.
Visit 8 to 11 December for the Festival of Lights when families place candles in windows and lanterns are carried through the city. The tradition dates back to 1852 when the statue of the Virgin was built on one of the hills overlooking the city.
