The Credentials:
Biras Creek Resort sits between two land mounds on Virgin Gorda – part of the British Virgin Islands in the heart of the Caribbean. Surrounded by three seas and hills of uninterrupted green, it is a 30-minute boat ride from the nearest road. Whether you choose to sway to the slow tempo of the waves in a beach hammock, swim the warm waters of Deep Bay, perfect your tennis serve, hike the hills, or explore the calm waters of North Sound in a Boston Whaler, Biras Creek is an elegant but informal paradise far removed from the tourist trail.
Dine:
Food at Biras was on another level.
Breakfast was substantial – a delectable feast prepared to fuel the day’s activities. Lunch was fairly casual, either a buffet of astonishingly fresh delights served under a beach pavilion, or a three-course meal in a viewing gallery overlooking the Atlantic, Caribbean and North Sound bays.
Dinner was more formal. Renowned for discretion and quality, super-yacht owners flock from the harbour to enjoy the grand dining experience atop the highest hill. Dinner had a sense of occasion with guests casting their wetsuits aside in favour of chic separates, elegant shift-dresses and Ralph Lauren chinos.
Haute–cuisine quality combined with hearty portions were appreciated all the more after a day spent horse-riding, sailing, motor-boating and cycling. The menu was both comprehensive and adaptable, the experience languorous and indulgent. The staff and chef eptomised warm Caribbean hospitality. Wines were fantastic and knowledgeably matched to each course.
Sleep:
We were upgraded to one of the two unoccupied Grand Suites. The Ocean and Garden Suites (making up all but three of the villas on the resort) were more basic. Smaller, functional, and without TV, plunge pools or much in the way of luxury, they are ideal to collapse after a day spent sailing, boating, eating and cycling. Biras Creek is not luxurious in a Four Seasons sense but in terms of the amazing location, facilities, staff and water-sports on offer.
Having said this, our Grand Suite was incredible. We had an ancient walnut four-poster with (necessary) mosquito drapes, a huge bathroom with free-standing tub, separate outdoor and indoor showers and, the pièce de résistance; our own private plunge pool and courtyard. The bedroom opened into a corridor, which led to a vast sitting room with another bathroom and hall. The décor was chic, understated and expensive, long L-shaped sofas surrounding a massive TV tastefully disguised in an antique cabinet. The fridge in the hall was stocked with complementary Caribbean rum, soft drinks and snacks, all replenished regularly.
Our villa was a good 50 metres from the nearest occupied villa, and our patio and pool totally screened. This allowed for a spot of skinny-dipping, late-night pool parties à deux and sunburn permitting, European tanning. On our final night we discovered underwater strobe lights, which if pressed three times, flashed multi-coloured like an old-school rave. We had a lot of fun recreating the ’90s with the sound system and flouro water lights.
If, like me, you enjoy heritage décor, home comforts, fluffy bathrobes, and space to languish in a sun-strewn bath whilst your partner is showering elsewhere, I’d definitely recommend the Grand Suite. If, like most guests, you appreciate the insane facilities (more boats than people, hikes, bikes, several horses to leap on, and sailing and surf lessons with staff that know the bay like the back of their hand) you’d be just as content in a standard Ocean or Garden suite.
Who Goes There?
Guests were affluent yet unflashy and surprisingly British – even the Americans. Nothing was ostentatious, and the villas don’t lock. The resort is small with only 30 or so suites, so after a couple of days we were familiar with our fellow guests. We had dinner with a hotshot female entertainment lawyer, lunched with a New York charity worker on honeymoon, and shared polite conversation with a varied but unobtrusive selection of gregarious outdoorsy types.
Out & About:
Only accessible by boat or helicopter, the creek’s paradise playground had enough to entertain for a lifetime. Apart from a moonlit cruise in a glass-bottomed boat, we had no desire to leave.
The Best Thing:
It’s hard to decide between swimming in the clear ocean shallows, enjoying a romantic picnic lunch on an uninhabited desert island, exploring creeks and coves alone in a motorboat, or sailing unsupervised to Necker Island. After years of travel writing, my boyfriend and I agreed this had been our most enjoyable trip yet – our four days felt like a fortnight.
The boyfriend loved that he could amble out of the villa and find a willing tennis partner/surf instructor/kayak buddy. I loved the freedom of jumping in a speedboat alone and exploring the coves and uninhabited islands at high speed.
Dinner was a particularly fine affair. Tables swathed in fine linens, courses served at a leisurely pace, a varied cheeseboard and port, incredible views across the Caribbean and substantial distance between tables created the perfect ending to a perfect day.
The Worst Thing:
Biras was faultless, except for the presence of one young member of the Guest Services team who appeared intent on ruining our stay. The ex-sorority girl (I’m not joking) overlooked no opportunity to create an awkward exchange or cast snide glances in our direction.
One morning we’d arranged a packed lunch to take out in a Boston Whaler. As the skipper from our morning sail returned us several hours later than arranged, we were starving and needed lunch before setting out again. Helping ourselves to the beach buffet, we noticed said girl stage-whispering in front of us to another employee. She then marched over and publicly interrogated us at our table, as though we’d intended to hoard the packed lunch for later consumption (quite why we’d do this when all meals were included is beyond me). I’m not normally sensitive, but I’ll admit I felt like an extra in Mean Girls.
Having said that, this girl was totally out of keeping with the rest of the staff. I don’t know if she was hormonal or mentally ill, but in general staff bent over backwards to be warm, courteous and helpful. Their friendliness didn’t feel strained and you could tell they loved working there. The ratio of staff to guests was incredible, and there was always someone available to provide one-on-one lessons in whatever took our fancy.
