The Blurb
Yauatcha, the Cantonese all-day dining restaurant offers first-class dim sum, cocktails, tea, and European patisserie. Opened in 2004 by Alan Yau, famous for Wagamama, Busaba and Hakkasan, Yauatcha was awarded a Michelin Star in 2005 which it subsequently lost in 2019. But never mind, because the high end chain had already cemented it’s reputation for excellence, expanding it’s global reach with openings in Riyadh, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Kolkata.
As you may have ascertained, this isn’t your run of the mill dim sum joint. Yauatcha presents authentic Cantonese dishes with a modern twist. In addition to it’s range of steamed, baked and fried dim sum, there’s a menu of twenty-four different teas and an alluring cocktail list devised by some of the world’s premiere mixologists.
We visit on a wet Saturday afternoon in December with a four week old baby. Storm Darragh rages outside, but we are warmly welcomed by Yauatcha’s reservation team who accommodate our buggy without any fuss. We’re here to try the Infinite Yum Cha menu, a ‘colourful reimagining of a Chinese teahouse brunch.’ Priced at £45 per person, the brunch includes ‘an endless selection of steamed, fried and baked dim sum’ a signature cocktail, a choice of main course and a dessert.
The Style
With its modern design and wrap-around roof terrace; Yauatcha City perfectly reflects the needs of its executive clientele. Cream leather chairs, blue glass walls and aquariums give a luxurious, sub-aquatic feel. Pastel-hued macarons are presented in glass cases like rare exhibits and an open-plan design by renowned French architect, Christian Liaigre, allows diners to watch the skilled hands at work in the kitchen.
The Drink
We start with the ‘Tales of Negroni’ cocktail, crafted with Tanqueray No. TEN, a house tea infusion, Campari, Antica Formula, plum wine, coconut and popcorn’. Whilst the presentation is dramatic: served in a mist of dry ice from a cut-glass decanter – it’s perhaps a mistake to call it a Negroni, because though delicious in it’s own right, this rendition is sweet, not bitter. We also try the ‘Big Red Robe’ tea, elegantly served in a traditional pot. With it’s exquisite smoky fragrance, this Oolong variant is native to the Wuyi Mountains and features notes of burnt caramel and orchid.
The Food
Too begun, a trio of Cantonese favourites; Pork and Prawn Shui Mai, Har Gau and Seafood Black Truffle. The Shui Mai are excellent as is the subsequent Venison Puff. Vegetarians need not despair as the edamame version and Pan-Fried Vegetarian Bao are just as tasty as their meaty counterparts. Call me old fashioned, but I believe black truffle should stay in it’s lane – needless to say, the truffled fish is not for me. The Char Siu Bao however, are sublime, so we order more.
For the main course, we opt for the Stir-Fried Rib Eye and Stir-Fried Scallop and Prawn. Both are served in a black bean sauce and come with a choice of jasmine or egg-fried rice. The scallops are in generous quantity and perfectly cooked. The steak is of high-quality and tender, but despite our polite restraint with the ‘bottomless Dim Sum’ we’re already quite full, so don’t finish it. Aware that the generous people of Yauatcha must draw the line somewhere, we keep a beady eye on the table next to us as they who reorder Shui Mai with wild abandon. Eventually, after several rounds, they appear to have pushed their luck and are served their main courses and desserts with a side order of ‘it’s time to go home.’
The Soufflé Pancake is served with honeycomb and represents just a glimpse into the expansive world of patisserie that Yauatcha has on offer. It’s a delicate, sweet and fluffy – the perfect ending to a fun and delicious brunch.
In a Nutshell
Yauatcha’s playful style is something you won’t find in China Town and the cocktails, patisserie and interior design make it a colourful choice for a celebratory meal. The Infinite Yum Cha Menu is excellent value for money and a great alternative to a Sunday Roast or the more traditional breakfast/brunch menu.
Yauatcha’s Infinite Yum Cha Brunch Menu is available at Yauatcha City and Yauatcha Soho every Saturday from 12pm to 6pm and costs £45 per person.
The Details
Yauatcha Ciity, Broadgate Circle London, EC2M 2QS
Yauatcha Soho, 15-17 Broadwick St, London W1F 0DL
