The Blurb
A Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant hidden in a quiet backstreet of Mayfair, inspired and influenced by the traditions of Kyoto whilst sourcing many ingredients from around the British Isles. Umu promises the best of authentic Japanese food prepared by experts and arriving in luxurious surroundings with exceptional service. Does it deliver this?
The Food
Where to begin? A full menu was on offer, starting with an outstanding array of both delicately thin and generously fat slices of sashimi with house-made wasabi and soy sauce that included a particularly succulent cut of yellow-fin tuna, followed by an outstanding array of other various Sushi, coiled together with vegetables or topped with caviar or truffle. Enter next the Tempura with its satisfying crunch of batter immediately followed by creamy soft Cornish Lobster and Vegetables. By the time the Tempura had finished, I was ready to proclaim that as the standout of the evening but the next dish stole the title, fine-grade Hoba-Yaki Wagyu Beef in a miso nut sauce, delivered on crisp leaves and gently heated by candle to keep the meat at a perfect temperature throughout the time it remains on the table.
By this point, I’d had a few glasses of chilled and a generous serving of room temperature Sake so my notes, which were peppered with enthusiastic exclamation marks and borderline pretentious adjectives said, next to the Wagyu, ‘so good the Chef should be arrested’. It sounds slightly odd now but I can assure you this was meant in the most positive way possible (Though in the cold, sober light of day, I recognise that a nod on the New Year’s honours list would be far more fitting and also richly deserved).
With the mains settled and wine glass topped up, dessert arrived and considering how good the menu had been thus far, my expectations were high. My expectations were smashed. The first was ‘Charamisu Mayfair Garden’ which, served in a cute flower pot and topped with a chocolate soil textured covering was a Japanese seasonal matcha green tea tiramisu, which can be filled with Sake. Matcha, tiramisu and Sake are not regular items on my menu so I was particularly overjoyed to discover just how well it worked. I’d never think of such a combination but Umu have had it as a permanent menu item since it opened 10 years ago. This was joined with a serving of homemade ice cream, caramelised biscuit and another strip of the delightful chocolate soil.
The Style
As mentioned, there’s a full view of the open kitchen from pretty much anywhere in the restaurant allowing an unfettered view of the Chefs at work. Thankfully this is not a chaotic or rowdy scene, that viewers of The Bear or one of Gordon Ramsey’s 6 billion different television shows might be familiar with. It’s a studious, peaceful milieu, which is thoughtfully reflected onto the plates that arrive at your table.
The decor is subtly Japanese, with softly lit tables and banquets with cherry wooden accents across the board and serene music piped gently from the ceiling. This is, thankfully, not a raucous venue. Instead, a relaxing escape where calming dishes and attentive and discrete service whisks you away from the clamorous rush of the west end.
A special mention to the tableware, too. In another nod to Japan, the art of Kintsugi (‘join with Gold’) has Small pieces of gold set into the occasional chips or used as a seam to bond back together once broken plates and bowls. It’s not often that I pay too much attention to items of crockery, much less sing the praises of once-busted ones but it was very much to my delight that the attention to detail extended this far, giving you a cultural experience that extends beyond the usual confines of ‘just’ food.
By reusing things rather than just throwing them away, Kintsugi has roots in sustainability as much as art, so on that note it’s also worth reiterating how much of the menu is locally sourced from within the UK. As well as meaning you’re guaranteed fresher produce you can also take comfort (or even indulge in some slight smugness like I did), in knowing that Umu aren’t burning through several rainforests worth of Carbon by flying everything in from Asia on a weekly basis. Your move, Greta.
In a Nutshell
I asked at the beginning if Umu delivered on its promise of fine food, surroundings and service. Umu delivers this and more, a high-end dining experience delivered with thought and sophistication and a pleasant absence of pretension that other venues in this bracket can sometimes occupy. The consideration and craft ever present in every aspect of my evening makes Umu impossible not to recommend and also revisit at the earliest opportunity.
The Details
14-16 Bruton Place, London, W1J 6 LX
reception@umurestaurant.com
+44 (0)20 7499 8881
Open Tuesday – Saturday; lunch 12pm-2pm & dinner 6pm-10pm
