Open Mon-Fri 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm, Sat 12pm-2.30pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm, Sun 12pm-2.45pm, 5.30pm-9.45pm
The blurb
Nestled in the heart of London’s Marylebone Village, this Michelin-starred Indian restaurant from the JKS restaurant group is celebrating its 10-year anniversary this November. And what better way to celebrate than with a nostalgic lunch time menu offered at the same price as 10 years ago. The 5-course lunch tasting menu, including many of the original dishes served up by chef Keram Sethion first opening the restaurant, is here for a limited time only so West London Living hightailed it to Trishna to try it out for ourselves.
The style
Intimacy and informality is the vibe you get from Trishna, as soon as you walk in the door. What looks like a beguilingly small establishment from the front, is a lovely wood-panelled warren of dining spaces, covered in antique mirrors, travel adverts from the 50s, and pop-y Parisien centric artworks. Marble table tops and gleaming tableware add a touch of glamour, but the atmosphere is in no way stuffy and the terrace doors that open up onto Blandford Street provide a semi-alfresco feel.
The crowd
Crowd is the word! Even on a Wednesday lunchtime we were lucky to get a table. There were a whole range of patrons; from large groups of friends, to dating couples in their later years, and it seemed a fair few well-heeled oversees tourists (with its Michelin star Trishna enjoys an international reputation).
The food
The tasting menu itself, at £32.50 (with optional additional £45 wine-pairing), is perhaps not the most snippily-priced but you will certainly be well-fed for your money. There are choices available on each course for the vege/pescetarians (but vegans may struggle) so we opted for one of each to get the best flavour of this fascinating trip to India.
I could have eaten a mound of the light poppadum and chutneys that started us off, or indeed of the starter of the soft yet crispy Koliwada Squid and Shrimps (covered in the most deliciously spiced batter). The Aloo Chat veggie starter was also a delicate, refreshing opener for what would prove to be a huge meal. I and my dining partner were practically fighting over who got to eat more of the Hariyali Bream second course; utterly delicious soft, flaky fish in a vibrant marinade of green chili and coriander that I won’t forget in a hurry. Likewise, the Paneer Tikka Anardana with raw mango, mint and pomegranate chat was a moreish blend of salty, smoky sweetness. I was slightly less taken with the Seekh kebab third courses, and the Malwani fish curry and Vanghi Bhaat (that both came with an absolute feast of dal, rice, potatoes and crisp breads), which were enjoyable rather than memorable. But the final course of Mango and Pistachio Kheer was utter heaven; a delicious, beautifully-balanced blend of creamy cardamom, kulfi, mango and ginger candy, that I only wished had been twice the size!
The drink
Uncharacteristically fastidious (it was a midweek lunchtime after all) we didn’t plump for matching wine on this occasion, but the rest of the drinks menu at Trishna is so playful and interesting that I’m glad we got the chance to choose. We both began with aperitifs; a sweetly yummy Marigold Spritz for me (£12) and a more refreshing Elderberry Royale (£15) for my companion. Trishna offers a lovely selection of ‘Regional Cocktails’ inspired by the flavours of the map of India, so my companion decided to try a Kashmir cocktail which (made with Tanqueray, fortified wine, PX sherry and flavoured with saffron and bay leaf) certainly packed an alcoholic punch. I enjoyed a delightful carafe of 2015 Reisling Spatlase (more than a little pricey at £12 for 125ml, £22 for 250ml, £36 for 375ml) which may have verged on the sweet side when drunk alone, but was perfect for cutting through and balancing the wonderful spice of the meal.
In a nutshell
My tastebuds were doing veritable tap-dances of satisfaction, especially early on, in the meal and the service was friendly and swift. For a spot of Indian nostalgia with a modern and decidedly inventive edge, I’d recommend heading to Trishna’s before November is out!
