The Bingham restaurant
'The main course was the best I’ve had in a long time' at The Bingham

The Bingham

Open lunch Mon–Sat 12.30pm–2.15pm; Sun 12.30pm–4.15pm; dinner Mon–Wed 7pm–10pm Thu–Sat 6.30pm–10pm

Located in an elegant Georgian townhouse on the edge of Richmond with a gorgeous view of the river, this hotel restaurant is luxuriously decorated with a soft palette of creams and beautiful chandeliers.

Fortunately the food lives up to its stylish surrounds (and some). Executive chef Shay Cooper trained at Paul Heathcote’s School of Excellence in Manchester and quickly rose up the ranks in posts at Michelin-starred restaurants. Drawing on over 10 years experience, Shay’s seasonal menu shows off the best regional produce (there’s even a herb and vegetable garden in the grounds of the hotel).

My humble seasonal vegetable salad with bitter leaves, goats’ cheese royale and mushroom vinaigrette reminded me of why I love good food – it looked beautiful (lots of colour and delicate micro leaves) and the creamy cheese and subtle vinaigrette worked perfectly. My friend’s starter of hamhock and foie gras ballotine, pickled mushroom dressing and raisin toast was masterfully executed. ‘I am still dreaming about the terrine – it was one of the most delicious things I have eaten for ages,’ she said a week later. The main course was the best I’d had in a long time; wild mushroom and artichoke ragout, fresh pasta, black truffle and Madeira jelly – complex, interesting, plus it had none of the rich heaviness of so many vegetarian dishes. My friend gave murmurs of delight over her Atlantic cod seaweed gnocchi, sautéed squid, palourde clams and tomato viniagrette.

The passion fruit curd complemented by a refreshing blood orange sorbet and crisp cigar wafer (which looked like a work of art) and the petit fours (including a toasted marshmallow which I had been tempted by on the dessert menu) were superb.

Service was flawless throughout and a note must be made of the sommelier, Simone, who paired our dishes with wine perfectly.

It’s little surprise that the restaurant was busy during our Monday lunchtime visit. Richmond isn’t that close to me but The Bingham restaurant is certainly a destination I’m looking forward to returning to.

Lunch prix-fixe £22.50 for two courses, £26 for three courses.

The Bingham, 61–63 Petersham Road, Richmond Upon Thames, Surrey, TW10;; 020 8940 0902

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