Charlotte's Bistro
'The Cornish lamb rump was sublime' at Charlotte's Bistro

Charlotte’s Bistro

Open Mon–Sat midday–midnight; Sun midday–11.30pm

The sister restaurant of Ealing’s Charlotte’s Place, Chiswick’s Charlotte’s Bistro is a bottle-necked restaurant with a welcoming bar and steps leading up to the raised level dining area. The décor is slightly dated with its creams and browns which became fashionable during the Ramsay and Oliver gastropub era, accompanied by dark furniture that clearly dulls the airiness created by the conservatory-style ceiling. My friend Alex and I were joined by a few sets of couples tucked away in the corners giggling and feeding each other.

We started with a clean and fruity Spanish chardonnay (£32). I opted for the Scottish langoustine bisque (£8) while Alex went for the more adventurous spiced pig’s head terrine (£7). The langoustine was faultlessly fresh. However the bisque was a bit lost as it was a little too thin. Alex’s pig’s head was a course terrine garnished with sweetcorn and micro herbs. Our dishes were served on plates with huge impractical rims.

Unfortunately the relaxed atmosphere of the restaurant wasn’t matched by the service. Our waitress interrupted our conversation numerous times and leaned over us to fill up our glasses a little too frequently.

The Cornish lamb rump (£17) was sublime – the rich lamb went perfectly with the creamy soft sweetbreads and the Jenga-style bricks of mint jelly were a fun addition. Alex had the slow-cooked pork belly (£16) which was a bit parsimonious, with a piece of pork no larger than a credit card. However it’s buttery, sweet flavour was balanced with a zingy punch from the oyster vinaigrette.

For dessert I went for the chocolate fondant (£6) and Alex had the nougat praline parfait (£6). The parfait was a bit of a disappointment as it dissolved to a sweet nothingness. Chocolate fondants, however, sort the boys from the men and my fondant was perfectly gooey at the core with an outer sponginess amid a sticky salted caramel sauce.

I think perhaps our waitress had spotted my reporter’s notebook which could be the reason for the intrusive servive which distracted from the fine food.

Meal for two, including wine and service £100.

Charlottes’s Bistro, 6 Turnham Green Terrace, London, W4; www.charlottes.co.uk; 020 8742 3590

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