Open Mon–Sun midday–late
The kitchen of smart new Chinese restaurant Seventeen is headed up by Wang, who has come from Sichuan restaurant Ba Shan while chef Yue specialises in Sichuan and Cantonese dishes. However, the menu doesn’t stick exclusively to these two regions.
We arrived for lunch, looking forward to dim sum but were also tempted by dishes from the main menu, so ordered from both options. Vegetable dumplings (£2.90) were fine; the sweet egg yolk bun (£2.90) tasted like brioche – deliciously sweet and fluffy, while the tofu wrap with laver [delicate seaweed] in black bean sauce (£5.50) was well presented and made with silken tofu. Our dish of four season vegetables (£9.80) arrived in a light soy sauce and included white beans. We soon realised why these beans aren’t popular in the UK; I was reminded of ear wax. Needless to say, we left them at the side of our plates. My friend’s leek and chilli pepper fried tiger shrimp (£15.80) came with scallops, spring onion, black beans, oyster sauce, ginger and garlic. It was well cooked, but lacked flavour.
Admittedly, the Chinese are not known for charming service, but this is usually made up for in speed. Unfortunately we had neither. For a couple of moments there were no staff on the restaurant floor when we arrived. There was only one other table of customers – a mix of 10 Chinese and English people talking about the Olympics – and it was clear they were more important than us. We asked for water and more jasmine tea four times – on the third attempt the waiter curtly told me that he knew and it was on its way. Our teapot was tiny, while the other table had several large pots. While ordering dessert (refreshing mango pudding; £3.50), the waiter left us to serve the other table. Amusingly, the black-clad staff had ear pieces. We weren’t sure if the waiter heard us comment on his rudeness or spotted the obligatory notebook, but he took the dessert off the bill.
The restaurant has taken its style-cue from Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant Hakkasan: black latticed walls, cobalt blue backlit glass, marble floors, porcelain on display shelving and candles on the stairs, while the music is soothing (Chet Baker and Bebel Gilberto during our visit). Unfortunately there are fewer things less soothing than rude and slow service.
Meal for two around £90.
Seventeen, 17 Notting Hill Gate, London, W11; www.seventeen-london.com; 020 7985 0006
