'healthy dose of sunshine and colour'

Pomona’s

Mon-Thurs 10.00am-10pm,  Fri-Sat 10am-10.30pm, Sun 12pm-9pm

The blurb

LA lands in Notting Hill with a healthy dose of sunshine and colour (and gosh darn do we need it at the moment) with brand new West Coast-inspired restaurant Pomona’s. Head chef Gareth Sanderson created his menu post travels, so you can expect all the authenticity of a genuine Californian eatery, with an eye to healthy eating and the freshest ingredients (and more than a little creative flair).

The style

With 120 covers, Pomona’s open plan dining room is informal and laid back; almost the feel of a cafe rather than a restaurant. Bright and breezy decor with potted palms galore certainly conjures some West Coast warmth; the block pastels and plastic chairs feel hipster-trendy rather than cutting-edge class. Certainly Pomona’s is a great place for an informal family meal or brunch with friends (worth noting that they’re both dog and baby friendly), but those going for a romantic dinner for two may struggle to find any ‘atmosphere’.

The crowd

Our fellow diners seemed largely from the couples market, who I’m not sure are best served by the vibe. However, young and trendy seemed the name of the game, and I’m sure the large dining room would benefit from the bustle of bigger birthday parties and family groups that may struggle in less generous environs.

The food

There’s a ‘small plate’ vibe to the menu at Pomona’s, which I can only guess to be inspired by the stereotypically small LA appetites, as America isn’t typically where you head for meagre portions. And (for dinner at least) the menu certainly has creativity on its side! The descriptions and ingredients at Pomona’s will surely require even the most dedicated foodie to keep Google handy to translate the menu (I’m still at a loss as to what ‘cilantro gremolata’ is). From the bone marrow, rye sourdough, wasabi and bacon vodka shot (£8) through to the whole softshell crab, fre diavola, confit smoked garlic and tarragon butter (£10) you can’t accuse Pomona’s of lacking imagination.

Our similarly interesting starters of steak tartare and shredded kimchi (£8) and charred squid with black lentils and salsa verde (£8) were fresh and just enough to whet the appetite for the larger fare. I had a wonderful time sampling the (gratifyingly hearty) Ginger Pig hanger steak with charred endive and horseradish gremolata (£19) and my companion ordered a meltingly soft crispy pork belly with mojo de ajo and polenta (£19).

For dessert I cannot recommend enough the indulgent and guilty pleasure that is the caramelised croissant and prune pie with creme anglaise (£7). It might not look like the world’s most refined plate of food, but I’d happily eat a bucket of it on a cold winter night!

The drink

For such a social venue the drinks menu is fairly selective (just six wines of each type and a smallish beer selection) and a little on the pricey side. So I’d urge you to take a glance at the cocktail menu which, like the main menu, is a creative delight.

My Pineapple Fizz (vodka, fresh pineapple, jalapeño amd ginger ale for £9) was a tongue-tingling, moreish refresher of a drink, and my companion’s Blackberry Cosmopolitan (gin, orange curacao, lemon and blackberries at £9) brought to mind long days on a sunny Californian beach. However, the espresso martinis we requested for dessert (not on the menu) were a little on the thin and sickly side, which is a shame as the rest of the menu looked so tempting.

In a nutshell

Pomona’s has a great deal to recommend it; a sunny disposition (from the friendly staff through to the brightly painted decor) and creative flair across food and drink menus. But it’s a shame the food is more exciting on paper than it is on the palate; tasty without a definite wow factor. What Pomona’s needs is a small injection of atmosphere and maybe as much Californian energy as aesthetic. Once that is done it has the promise of serving up as much joy as curiosity.

The details:

Pomona’s, 47 Hereford Road, London, W5 5AH; www.pomonas.co.uk; 020 7229 1503

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