Open Mon–Wed midday–midnight; Thu midday–1am; Fri midday–2am; Sat 10am–2am; Sun 10am–midnight
Pizza East Portobello’s confused branding (why didn’t they call it Pizza West?) hasn’t put off the locals. ‘This is the fourth time I’ve tried to get a table here,’ we overheard a girl complain at the reception as we were ushered to our window table near the bar.
The popular Shoreditch restaurant has opened its second outpost on the former site of The Fat Badger pub (‘I hope they’ve fixed those drains,’ one friend mentioned). The interior of the restaurant, deli and bar has been stripped back to reveal the building’s original features including bright white brick walls, distressed panelling and a dilapidated ceiling. Industrial-style metal lights hang low and mismatched reclaimed chairs surround mismatched new tables. We couldn’t take a peek upstairs during our visit as it was providing a temporary home for Electric members while The Electric was being refurbished (Pizza East Portobello is owned by the Soho House Group), but the pics reveal a pretty cool period ceiling.
There’s more than pizza on the menu. Venetian-style cicchetti (here simply called antipasti) reveal top-notch ingredients (seasonal and local ingredients feature heavily) – we loved the olives and Marcona almonds (£4). The friend enjoyed a generous-sized portion of char-grilled squid with salsa verde (£6) while my asparagus and pecorino was slightly let down by tough white asparagus. We had to go for the wood oven pizzas (we counted six happy chefs in the open kitchen) – spicy sausage, mozzarella and sprouting broccoli (£13) for him; portobello mushroom and taleggio (£10) for me. Both were very good – a crispy base, generous toppings and crust. The only criticism from him was the use of tumblers for wine glasses – not the best way to savour a drink.
There’s an interesting selection of cheeses which includes a 36-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano, but we savoured a rich salted chocolate caramel tart (£4).
I loved the shabby-chic, buzzy atmosphere of this new neighbourhood eaterie. The staff are friendly, food is excellent and very good value. The only downside is they don’t take reservations (with the exception of one table of eight); I just hope I can get in next time I make a visit.
