'Some of the best South-East Asian dishes I’ve eaten in a long while'

Naga

Open Tue–Sat midday–2.30pm; Mon–Sat 6.30pm–12.30am; Sun 12.30pm–3pm and 6pm–10pm; Bar open Mon–Sat until 12.30am

Located on a site of a former Spanish restaurant just off Kensington High Street, South-East Asian bar and restaurant Naga is the brainchild of Eddy Lim, whose previous ventures include Paper Tiger, Tai Pan and Deals Restaurant (all west London-based). He’s assembled a brilliant team for Naga, which includes award-winning head chef Syarief, who boasts more than 20 years experience working in Vietnamese, Chinese and pan Asian kitchens; while top mixologist Tri Van Dang is the brains behind the bar – he created the famous Flaming Ferrari cocktail, previously managed Mahiki and set up the Brompton Club.

It’s an impressive space, too – steps lead down from the incense-scented chic front bar area to a gorgeous glass-roofed main dining room decorated with lush foliage, red Chinese silk screens, mirrored walls and flickering oil lamp-adorned spacious tables. A Buddha Bar-type soundtrack, and beautifully-dressed affable staff complete the elegant setting. (There’s also a private room that can be hired.)

The mainly Vietnamese and Chinese menu is superb and reasonably priced. We enjoyed delicate and super fresh vegetarian crystal rolls (£5.50); and equally good watermelon duck salad (£8.50) to start. These were followed by an array of some of the best South-East Asian dishes I’ve eaten in a long while (admittedly we overindulged and left with doggy bags), including black cod (£19.50) to rival Nobu’s; subtle silken tofu with ginger dressing (£5.70); peppery Singapore vermicelli noodles (£9.50); garlic French beans (£7.50); and succulent grilled aubergine with yellow bean and sweet soya sauce (from the Chinese New Year menu). Our dishes were washed down with an excellent virgin watermelon martini (£8) and refreshing Tri Smashed (vodka shaken with lemon juice, lychee juice, muddled lemongrass and topped up soda water; £10). We managed to share a delightful vibrant green (the colour came from pandan leaves) Asian brûlée (£6.50) for dessert, with jasmine tea (£2.50).

Naga, 2 Abingdon Road, London, W8; www.nagarestaurants.co.uk; 020 7795 6699

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