'[Maxims] allows you the rare (and intriguing) opportunity to mix and match your dishes'

Maxims

Mon—Sun 7pm—2am

When looking for a new restaurant, a casino might not be the first thing that springs to mind. After all, gambling and food are not the greatest of bedfellows and while we all like going to new places, taking a risk with dinner isn’t something that many of us are willing to do.

With this in mind, the opportunity to dine at the recently refurbished restaurant at Maxims Casino in Kensington was an interesting one. Food at casinos isn’t usually a high priority, the management generally focussing instead on a ready supply of drinks and as little time away from the roulette table as possible.

Further alarm bells were set off when reviewing the menu. Instead of concentrating on just one region, there are three; Chinese, Arabic/Indian and European. While this is undoubtedly designed to attract wealthy clientele from Asia and the Middle East as well as Londoners, it does make you wonder if Maxims are spreading themselves a little thin. Fortunately, each menu is looked after by a specialist chef from that region and, even better, it allows you the rare (and intriguing) opportunity to mix and match your dishes, so in the spirit of this I went for the Chinese hors d’oeuvres to start and fillet of beef for my main.

The starter, shared between two, comprised prawn and sesame toast, vegetable spring rolls, satay chicken and paper-wrapped prawns, all in generous amounts and all pretty good. The Chinese menu doesn’t contain any huge surprises or delicacies, instead choosing to focus on higher quality versions of Chinese foods that are common to the Western eye—and palate—but it does this quite well.

Things went up a gear with my European choice, the fillet of beef. Simply put, it was very (very) good. Perfectly tender, with the accompanying vegetables and carrot puree in red wine jus really bringing out the flavour. If I were prone to throwing around phrases like ‘the best steak I ever had’ then it could quite possibly be used in this case.

Despite being pretty stuffed by this point, I selfishly pushed onwards and enjoyed a classic chocolate fondant for dessert. Not the most adventurous of choices but again, one that I doubt you’d regret choosing.

The impressive menu and wine list compliments a classic interior, though the presence of multiple flat screens is a little at odds with the décor. Thanks to the extended opening hours (7pm—3am; it’s a casino, remember), the restaurant wasn’t especially busy, but what Maxims may lack in atmosphere, it certainly compensates for with variety and taste.

In a city where you can be overwhelmed with choice, it turns out that dining at this casino is a pretty safe bet. Also remember this, night owls—it’s got to be one of the few places in west London where you could rock up at 2am and still be guaranteed a great meal.​

Maxims Casino Club, 1a Palace Gate, Kensington, London, W8; 020 7581 0337; www.maximsclub.com

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