Mon 6pm–10.30pm; Tue–Sat midday–2.30pm, 6pm–10.30pm; Sun midday–3pm, 6.30–10pm
Tucked away in a residential area of Kensington just a stroll away from Gloucester Road hides the sumptuous Launceston Place, an elegant establishment led by head chef Tristan Welch, formerly of Ramsay’s Petrus. The ambiance is civilised; whispered conversations, meekly mannered waiters and silent smiles of satisfaction.
On first inspection you can’t help but wonder why nobody is talking or laughing but when the food arrives you understand it all. It is perfection; you lose all interest in catching up on the latest gossip or sharing news; you simply want to savour each bite. As we arrived at our window table we were given what I can only describe as the poshest crisps I have ever seen in my life, all baked into perfect rings and tied with a branded ribbon. It seemed such a shame to eat them.
Next came a delicious home-baked bread loaf, warm from the oven, served with salted butter perched proudly on a slate and a small pot of pickled herrings. We ordered from the lunch menu (three courses for £22). I chose the duck egg on toast with Somerset truffle. Having been a little indulgent over this year’s truffle season I was not particularly enthusiastic about the dish. However it turned out to be without doubt the best starter I have had all year; so simple and yet so good. The toast was so soft and moist it parted like brioche. The duck egg was an exuberant luminous orange with a rich, gelatinous texture that melted in the mouth. My friend Michelle opted for the beef, beetroot and wild garlic risotto which looked superb with a vivid green wild garlic emulsion contrasting against the deep red of the beef and beetroot. The beef was served as carpaccio; tender and mild tasting, creating a light and delicate starter. The restaurant’s enthusiastic sommelier paired a subtle, white Rhone valley wine for me to enjoy with my dishes.
After a short wait my pheasant breast with chestnut and home-cured bacon arrived. The bacon was in fact more like pork belly; rich, tender and sublime with a saltiness that brought the dish to life. The chestnuts were thinly sliced and deliciously crispy, complimenting the moist pieces of pheasant perfectly. Michelle chose the pork fillet roasted with cider wood, hazelnut mash and apple compote. Despite the dish looking a little bland with all its components varying shades of beige it was also a roaring success, with caviar jelly rolling off the pork and freshly sliced hazelnuts topping the silken mash.
For dessert we shared the treacle tart with crème fraiche ice-cream and the amazingly luxurious chocolate truffle with burnt orange ice-cream. The freshly baked truffle burst with a rich, oozing chocolate sauce and the ice-cream which was intensely infused with burnt orange sported great shafts of caramelised orange. Launceston Place is without doubt one of the most fantastically understated restaurants in London with each dish delivering 10 times what its description promised. The set lunch menu is unbelievably good value for such creative dishes produced with finesse. A real find.
