The Blurb
Lonsdale Road in Queens Park is fast becoming a foodie destination. At weekends, this stylish enclave is positively teeming with trendy thirty-somethings and their stylish offspring who venture here for the farmers’ market, a coffee and a pastry from Don’t Tell Dad.
Daniel Land’s restaurant and bakery has quickly established itself at the heart of this burgeoning food scene. Famous for its Saturday morning queue that spirals around the block and its playful take on patisserie – I recommend this season’s Rhubarb and Coconut Meringue Danish – Don’t tell Dad has a relaxed but lively atmosphere. And the name? It comes from a phrase frequently uttered by Daniel’s late sister Lesley, before the two would get into mischief. I visited for Sunday lunch in mid-March with my husband and daughter to see if I could get into some mischief of my own.
The Style
Matte terracotta walls, distressed mirrors, green velvet and fluted glass. In the back of the restaurant there is an open kitchen with inviting red leather booths. The overall effect is cosy, chic and deeply personal. Beneath a glass-topped display table lies a Grayson Perry-esque tapestry map of Queen’s Park created by a local artist and commissioned especially for the restaurant.
The Drink
In the spirit ‘mischief’ I immediately order a dirty martini. ‘Gosh – that’s strong!’ I exclaim in faux-surprise… as if I’d expect a vodka martini to be any other way. My husband is driving, so he sensibly opts for a Bottivo and soda, which is sort of a cross between a non-alcoholic amaro and a flavoured apple cider vinegar. There’s an extensive wine list full of modern favourites and old-world classics. I ignore these and opt for the Orangino, an Italian grape blend macerated wine, which is aromatic, tangy and very, very trendy – just the way I like it.
The Food
The menu is a mix of elevated bistro-style dishes, modern British and European favourites with a twist. To start, we have the Rarebit Beignet, aka: cheesy doughnut. Here, a crisp exterior gives way to a rich and gooey centre. If this dish sets the bar high, then the next offering effortlessly soars over it with the grace of an Olympic high jumper. The Oxtail Crumpet comes topped with a beef-dripping crumb. It’s rich, delicious and tastes like a really good Yorkshire pudding, but with all the nostalgia of a crumpet toasted on an open fire.
At this point, I’m afraid we’ve peaked too soon, but the main courses are equally as decadent. We have the hake special, which is stunningly fresh and perfectly cooked. And with easter right around the corner, ‘tis the season for lamb, which arrives upon a velvety pillow of Jerusalem artichoke puree. It’s possibly the most tender piece of shoulder I’ve ever tasted. Pommes Anna and bitter greens make the perfect accompaniment to both of these dishes.
For dessert, we share a plate of madeleines and a chocolate mousse. The chocolate mousse is served with a sticky roasted blood orange and beneath an avalanche of flaky shards of milk chocolate – a wonderful textural contrast to the satin soft mousse beneath. The madeleines are made to order, flavoured with a delicate burnt butter, and baked with Shipton Mill flour – as is the MO here. We don’t usually give our daughter sweet things, but as the heavenly scent wafted around the table, it felt ungodly to deprive her. Needless to say, she’s obsessed.
In a Nutshell
This is one of the best London restaurants I’ve visited in a long time. And it’s not just the food or the atmosphere… the staff looking after us are a delight; friendly, happy and attentive, we were welcomed like family, without fuss or pretension. Evidently, the best thing about this place is it’s unwavering ‘authenticity’ – with just the right amount of mischief about it too. And I like mischief, so I’d go back every Sunday if I could.
The Details
10-14 Lonsdale Rd, London, NW6 6RD
