Daily 11am–11pm
Being sister venue to royal haunt Boujis nightclub and sleek cocktail bar Eclipse, WLL had high expectations for Bumpkin, and we were not disappointed. Boujis may have a royal following but it is its little sister Bumpkin that boasts a true loyal following with its classy country kitchen style interior. The front section plays host to an informal bar area, with a few rustic wooden tables and a sofa area but the real buzz comes as you venture towards the kitchens where you will find a large casual dining area. With spring on its way, Bumpkin will soon be a top spot for al fresco mooching with a few select tables fringing Old Brompton Road, surrounded by flowers.
Bumpkin attracts a real mix of ages and is a truly multifunctional venue. On our visit we were surrounded by lovers staring into each other’s eyes, friends exchanging witty repertoires and families giving mum a night off. Everyone was in high spirits and looked totally at home in the relaxed, ambient setting. Every table was full by 8pm on our visit, as was the private dining room upstairs.
The menu is a very British affair and despite looking intentionally pubby, this is a cut above your average boozer. With strong regional influences, it features Cornish sea bass, Cheltenham beetroot, Barnsley lamb and Suffolk chickens to name a few of the regions accounted for. There is also a pleasing emphasis on sustainability and seasonality.
My friend Natalie is vegetarian but was thoroughly impressed with their vege-friendly options and after much deliberation opted for the daily special; a broccoli and blue cheese salad to start (£7.95). I, on the other hand, was torn between the varied fish and meat options, but eventually settled for the smoked mackerel pâté with Cheltenham beetroot and pickled cucumber (£6.50). Attractively presented on a rustic slate, my pâté was surprisingly smooth with a rich and creamy taste which was awoken by the sharp lemon and refreshing, earthy beetroot. Natalie’s salad came in a generous portion and had a good combination of flavours.
For mains, we were both impressed with the three-cheese and red onion tart (£12.95), a dish that so often fails to meet the grade and is often a dry and bland token vegetarian dish. This however was a generous portion of moist and fluffy tart with a light and airy filling. We were also very pleased to see slow-roasted chestnuts making it on to the plate, an ingredient so rarely seen now.
My Cornish sea bass fillet (£16.95) with sausage, bacon and Morecombe Bay shrimps was executed beautifully, but the dish was confused with an uncomplimentary mix of textures. The delicate fish was overpowered by tough, chewy cabbage – a real shame as the fish was delicious.
For dessert we ordered the treacle tart (£6) and the intriguing Cambridge cranberry burnt cream (£6) which came served with homemade marshmallows. Despite vowing to just taste a little, we polished off the lot without a word. The treacle tart was superb with a delicately crispy top and lovely creamy ice cream.
Bumpkin offers a fantastic variety of wines with almost 30 bottles of red to choose from and a loyal selection of English varieties from Gloucestershire, Sussex and Kent. English wines are so often overlooked yet there are over 400 vineyards across the country, although they can often be a little acidic.
We were also pleased to see a bin end bargain menu where you could snap up a premium bottle for a snip of the normal price. With glasses starting from £4.25 and bottles reaching £100, the restaurant covers all budgets and tastes and the staff are more than happy to offer tasters to help you decide and experiment. We ordered the Hunter’s Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (£33.95) from New Zealand which, like many of their wines, was produced organically and sustainably. It was light, fruity and lively.
