Awana restaurant
'Awana’s food is intricate; each dish a talking point'

Awana

Lunch daily midday–3pm; dinner Mon–Wed 6pm–11pm; Thu–Sat 6pm–11.30pm; Sun 6pm–10.30pm

I had never eaten Malaysian food until visiting Awana and had decided to bring my friend Alex (Malaysian cuisine connoisseur) with me to help me out.

Through the reception decorated with fish bowls of floating flowers, we had a short wait in the bar area where we began the very important decision-making on cocktails before being seated in a cosy spot – the décor is like the inside of a luxury chocolate box; sumptuous brown wood panelling with silk fabric-lined walls, maroon sofas and gold touches. We were sat right next to an enormous flat-screen TV showing the chef making rotis – bread as thin as cigarette paper which is made by skilful spinning (trust me, I’ve tried it), folding and grilling the dough.

The cocktail menu is long. I ordered the sweet and fragrant blooming hibiscus martini (£9.50), while Alex ordered the fresh and creamy tongue-twisting Havana-Banana-Awana (£8.50) made with coconut and banana.

The waitress helped with the lengthy menu, recommending the salt and pepper prawns (£10) to start and the chicken wonton parcels (£7.50). The prawns were a little floury but wonderfully peppered with fresh green chilli and crispy deep-fried garlic shards while the chicken was moist and aromatic with crispy wonton shells.

Time for another cocktail; I went for the Asian Bellini (£9.50) chased by dragon fruit and guava juice. Alex chose the mojito (£8), which was sexed up with Venezuelan rum.  

For mains I chose from the special curry festival menu; the squid curry (£16.50), which was like a mildly spicy chunky soup with chunks of veg and a punchy salty flavour from the squid served with sticky fragrant rice. Alex was a bit more adventurous than me and ordered the four-curry speciality dish (£18.50) – similar to a thali with a veal, guinea fowl, monkfish and vegetable curry consisting of okra and cabbage. We both agreed that the monkfish was the star – it was moist and meaty and absorbed all the complex flavours of the sauce. We had to try the roti as we had been distracted by their conception all evening: we opted for the garlic roti, which was crunchy and light without a drop of grease.

The curries were a little sweet and creamy for my taste as I am used to the more forceful flavours of Indian curries but I could appreciate the more varied levels of flavour and texture. Also, the small table was a slight problem as we had many different dishes to each meal and were shuffling the plates around like a puzzle to be able to fit them all in.

With what little room we had left, we ordered the tapioca cake with almond cream (£6) and a trio of sorbets (£6.80) in outlandish flavours – lemongrass and chilli; star anis and blood orange; and gin and tonic. The tapioca cake had a milky flavour and a firm texture with an indulgent almond cream to add moisture.

The sorbets were a surreal experience with Alex exclaiming, ‘I feel like Veruca Salt!’ The chilli and lemongrass was the strangest sensation for us – freezing cold followed by a bubbling heat at the back of the throat from the chilli and a flowery flavour from the lemongrass. Very strange. My favourite was the orange and star anis even though it tasted of Sambuca (to which I have a slight aversion).

After the sorbet I fancied something a little more familiar and ordered a dessert wine while Alex opted for that old favourite, Havana-Banana-Awana.

Awana’s food is intricate; each dish a talking point – perfect to share and brilliant for a first date.

Awana Roti Masterclass, includes meal and a drink, £55 per person.

Meal for two, including wine and service, around £100.

Awana, 85 Sloane Avenue, London, SW3; www.awana.co.uk; 020 7584 8880

Restaurants |