'This really is like going on the first school trip to France; only better'

Brasserie Gustave

Open Tue 6pm–10.30pm; Wed–Fri midday–10.30pm (11.30pm Fri); Sat–Sun 11am–11pm (10.30pm Sun)

I was not happy. It was a cold, blustery evening and the Plus One had parked the car a considerable way from Brasserie Gustave, which is on the corner of Sydney Street and the Fulham Road in South Kensington. However, all traces of cumudgeonliness dissipated as soon as I pushed open the door and was greeted by a friendly waiter who spirited away my sodden jacket, ravaged umbrella and ill humour in one fell swoop. One of his colleagues, a delightful Polish girl, offered me a Frenchini (Brasserie Gustave’s answer to a Bellini, a mixture of crémant with cassis; £8.50) as I waited for the Plus One to return from the car. The cocktail was somewhat unmemorable but none the less it allowed me time to look at the extensive list of largely French wines in this restaurant: it has an impressive offering of about a dozen wines by the glass.

As I was looking at the wine list, general manager Richard Weiss, an elegant, avuncular man of imposing stature whose presence makes this restaurant, came over to the table to introduce himself. It is not difficult to see that his clients, if they are not local, have followed him from his previous incarnation at Brasserie Jacques in Mayfair and with good reason: a former sommelier, Richard shares his love of French cuisine and knowledge of French wines, with generosity and passion. However, I did still wince when my companion quite unabashedly told him that he only drank Malbec from South America. Richard did not flinch but rather took joy in finding a French wine, which would please the companion, and he did. He offered him a 2009 Cahors ‘Le Combel’, Domaine Cosse Maisonneuve (£38). This rich, complex and minerally wine from Languedoc Roussillon hit the spot.

With one sip, the Plus One was won over and was ready to look at the menu which serves the traditional fare that we have all tried on our long-forgotten holidays/exchanges to France and which, dare I say it, we have forsaken for more ‘modern’ food combinations. It is like coming home and for this reason, hugely comforting.

There was soupe à l’oignon gratinée (£7), snails (£8), coquilles St. Jacques (£16) and terrine de gibier aux pistaches (£7), which I tried. The scallops, sitting in splendid isolation in the middle of the plate, were surrounded by tiny mounds of chestnut and pumpkin purée, which provided the perfect earthy counterpoint to the sweet, delicate flavour of the scallops. Richard served us another Languedoc wine, which we both liked, a 2012 Minervois Cuvée Classique, Domaine de la Rouviole (£6.50 per glass or £24 for a bottle). It was subtle enough to accompany the scallops but had enough depth to match the robust flavours of the game terrine.

After so flavourful a start, we wondered what the main courses would be like. The Plus One had Richard’s signature dish, the steak tartar (£20), and this is where you see that the latter is not only a fine sommelier but also an alchemist. With tender meat, anchovies, shallots, capers, mustard and other ingredients he conjured an explosive mix of deliciousness. The Plus One was verging on ecstasy. I couldn’t decide between the venison and the rabbit so Richard suggested I try both. The former was very flavoursome and earthy but it was the rabbit, which won all the prizes. Served in its own jus, it was tender with an understated hint of aniseed.

If, like me, you look at the dessert menu first, you would not be disappointed. This really is like going on the first school trip to France; only better. Here were all the old favourites, tarte Tatin (£9.50), crêpe Suzette (£9.50) and crème brulée (£6.50) – only this one was not so much brulée as dorée. The fine crystallized layer of sugar protecting the pale custard beneath was golden and had a lighter taste than that of the usual crème brulée.

This restaurant’s strengths are without a doubt its varied, interesting and mostly affordable wine list as well as its carefully prepared traditional fare. The only thing, which was slightly at odds with an otherwise dignified yet welcoming atmosphere, was the décor. The walls, a harsh yellow, are adorned with copies of Belle Époque advertisements, more reminiscent of student digs than a sophisticated, elegant French brasserie. But then again, each to his own, and it certainly doesn’t detract from the seriousness of the food or the charm and professional ease of Monsieur Weiss and his team.

Set lunch menu £19.50/£23.50 for two/three courses. A la carte, a meal for two with wine, about £120 including 12.5 per cent service.

Brasserie Gustave, 4 Sydney Street, London, SW3; brasserie-gustave.com; 020 7352 1712

If you would like to stay up to date with our restaurant reviews, subscribe to our weekly e-newsletter.

Restaurants |