Bombay Brasserie
'Sophisticated, elegant Indian cuisine' at Bombay Brasserie

Bombay Brasserie

Open Mon–Sat midday–3pm, 6.30pm (bar opening), 7pm–11.30pm (last orders); weekend brunch midday–3pm; Sun 6.30pm (bar opening), 7pm–10.30pm

Bombay Brasserie is a London institution older than me. Over the last 29 years, they have cooked for everyone from Tom Cruise and Elton John to Mick Jagger. As I exited Gloucester Road station I kept my beady eyes peeled for the red carpet. Eventually I spotted the modest entrance of the famous restaurant; not a red runway in sight.

As soon as you enter the grand restaurant you are struck by the elegant, colonial feel. The bar in the entrance foyer has a ‘hush hush’ atmosphere with the restaurant concealed behind enormous doors. You are greeted by a line of charming and immaculate waiters, poised to walk you to your table and cater to your every whim.

My friend and I were seated in the airy conservatory area which boasts enormous palm trees climbing towards the glass ceiling, a spotless marble floor and the centre piece; an open kitchen (which, manned by just one chef, seems largely for show as opposed to cooking). The majority of our fellow diners were Indian business men which was a reassuring sign.

The wine list is extensive and accelerates quickly. We opted for a bottle of Cooper Creek, a New Zealand sauvignon blanc (£29.50) which our waiter ensured us would complement the spice that was to follow.

As we perused the enormous food menu we received a ‘greeting from the kitchen’, an enormous deep-fried prawn, perfectly moist with a rich, smoky flavour. This was followed by an amuse bouche, a spicy carrot and coriander soup which was creamy and spicy in equal measure and left us wanting more.

To start I ordered the green mango-flavoured king prawns (£11.50) which were divine. My friend ordered the char-grilled, spiced asparagus tips (£9.00) which had a subtle level of spice cutting through the earthy asparagus. However we felt that the char-grilling method left them a little dry.

For mains we shared a few dishes; the winner was the slow-cooked lamb shank in a saffron curry sauce (£23). The alluring deep red dish was rich and sweet in equal measure, totally moist and so tender the lamb fell off the bone. This succulent, mild dish is a fantastic choice for those avoiding serious spice. The orange and Sarawak-peppered black cod (£25) was recommended by our waiter but actually was our least favourite dish as the gelatinous texture did not work with the other rich, meaty dishes. Our side dish of okra (£10) was slightly oily and overpriced, but the strikingly fluorescent dal (£8) was delicious and accompanied the lamb beautifully.

Despite being totally full we ordered the Indian ice-cream (£6.50). It was a triumph; its luxurious creamy texture was lightened by the smoky, earthy flavour reminiscent of lapsang souchong tea and a light spicing and cardamom cleansed the palate.

This is what is so special about Bombay Brasserie; the spicing here is elegant and subtle leaving your to savour each mouthful, work your way through each layer and continuously identify new flavours and spices.

I finished my dinner with a cup of authentic chai (£2.75) which you cannot easily find in London, too often replaced with sugary syrup à la Starbucks. This chai was in a class of its own, the clove and ginger producing a warming and comforting experience with a subtle hit of peppery spice.

Bombay Brasserie has offered authentic, regional Indian cuisine with a contemporary twist for almost 30 years and shows no sign of letting its standards slip, it is the perfect place to enjoy sophisticated, elegant Indian cuisine in sumptuous surroundings.

Meal for two, with wine, around £110.

Check the website for details of their Tiffin lunch menu and weekend brunch.

Bombay Brasserie, 140 Courtfield Close, London, SW7; www.bombaybrasserielondon.com; 020 73704040

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