Open Mon–Fri 6pm–9.30pm; Sat–Sun midday–3pm and 6pm–9.30pm
The style:
From the outside only the paintings (of a pear tree, naturally) on the windows give a clue that this old pub has changed. Inside, a central bar is surrounded by mismatched furniture with a few blankets thrown over the back of some of the bench chairs. On a cold night, the sight of a fire blazing in the corner was welcome. Though many lamps and candles are dotted around, the pub can still feel a little gloomy.
The crowd:
A mixture of Fulham types, both old and new: two young couples laughing and drinking at the table near the fire; immaculately shirted Sloanes debating seriously next to us and a gaggle of older regulars holding court at one corner of the bar. It was good to see them; the pub is surrounded by homes of every income bracket and no one has been alienated by the subtle revamp.
The food:
Maybe the best reason to come here. Vintage Sheffield stainless steel cutlery coupled with ’20s and ’30s plates was a nice quirky touch. Portobello mushroom bruschetta with stilton and pear was just right; the toasted bread satisfyingly crunchy, with the pungent cheese and sweet fruit complimenting each other nicely. Salmon fishcakes were hearty and an accompanying celery puree was an original condiment that worked well. My cushion of lamb was a rarely seen cut that was tender in its garlicky gravy and, with pearl barley, very comforting grub. We managed panacotta with clementines too, a dessert made very light and refreshing by the citrus. With wine, the bill was a tad over £40.
The drinks:
Nothing unusual. All the tap beers that you find everywhere such as Stella and Guinness and 10 bottles of wine to choose from, plus some fizz. None of the wines come in at more than £17.
