Devonshire Arms
'The 40-minute wait for our mains was accompanied by apologies and it was worth it'

Devonshire Arms

Open Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri and Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–11pm

The style:

Located at the site formerly owned by Gordon Ramsay Holdings, The Devonshire Arms is the second opening of Nick Gibson, who also owns The Drapers Arms in Islington. Shaun Clarkson ID was enlisted to design the English-country-house-with-a-twist-inspired interiors – polished wooden floors, pretty wallpaper, moss green-painted wood panelling, low-hanging iron lights. There’s also a stylishly furnished sheltered garden at the back with jasmine among the greenery cloaking the fence.

The crowd:

It was full of smart local 30-somethings including a few who had come straight from the office on our Tuesday evening visit.

The food:

The English gastropub menu focuses on tried and tested seasonal dishes. My pretty salad starter (£4.75) included micro salad and had a drizzle of balsamic, while my friend had  seared scallops, shaved fennel and piccalilli (£8.50). The 40-minute wait for our mains was accompanied by apologies and it was worth it: my friend’s braised breast of lamb with summer garden vegetables was perfectly cooked; my flavoursome girolle and samphire risotto (£12.25) was just the right side of creamy. We shared a generous portion of smooth and tangy lemon posset with blueberries and shortbread (£6).

The drinks:

House ales include Harveys Sussex, Sambrook’s Wandle, Windsor & Eton, 6X, Old Hooky and Shepherd Neame Masterbrew. The extensive wine list includes up to 20 wines available by the glass and carafe – we went for a bottle of dry yet fruity Riesling Reserve, Andre Scherer, Alsace 2009 (£23.50).

The Devonshire Arms, 126 Devonshire Road, London, W4;; 020 8987 2626

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