The Credentials
Built in the 1930s, The Tivoli Avenida Liberdade is situated on one of Lisbon’s grandest avenues. Known to locals for its landmark building, it is also a favourite amongst business people and tourists from all over the world. And only 15 mins drive from the airport, it is extremely well-positioned. The pretty neighbourhoods of Bairro Alto, Chiado and Alfama are also nearby, making it a great spot from which to see the city on foot. Lisbon will certainly put your Pacer App through its paces- I racked up an impressive 24,000 steps one day, a lifetime PB and equivalent in distance to a half marathon. Those who need assistance, or whom like my husband… haven’t properly broken in their new sandals, will be pleased to know that Ubers in the city are plentiful and reasonably priced.
The Tivoli is delightfully traditional. Doormen in livery throw wide the big brass doors, the guest relations team are faultlessly charming, there’s a luscious display of flowers that fills the atrium and a very smooth check in is accompanied by the sound of soft jazz being played on the lobby’s grand piano. With 285 rooms, The Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, which is one of twelve in Portugal, is vast. The staff work tirelessly to foster a familiarity to make each guest feel individually welcome. Anticipating your needs before you think of them yourself: it’s the butler experience for those who’ve never had a butler, or worse… had to leave theirs at home.
Sleep
Our room is decorated in muted tones and has a treetop view across the avenida below. Welcome gifts include a bottle of port, a culinary map of Portugal displaying fresh pastries by region… and a framed printout of our wedding photo. Which is… a little bit of a shock at first, but charms us none the less.
Milky marble, solid brass fittings, fluffy white towels and deliciously scented products from Portuguese brand, Portus Cale, make for an opulent bathroom experience. The evening turn-down is a delight. The Tivoli fairies do everything but read you a bedtime story; you’ll return to find your belongings straightened, pillows plumped, chocolates on the bedside and perhaps even a little gift.
Dine
We begin the evening with a very tasty Caipiriñha at Sky Bar by SEEN. Located on The Tivoli’s rooftop, the terrace boasts breathtaking views across the city to the river Tagus. The Sky Bar opens daily from 5pm for sundowners and is rumoured to be one of Lisbon’s hottest night spots – as I get into the lift one evening, my suspicions are confirmed when two French gentlemen hurtle past the queue towards the closing door with what can only be described as Indiana-Jones-level-urgency. They then look at me expectantly… waiting for me to activate the lift with my key card to take them to the top floor. ‘Je connais votre jeu Messieurs!’
Behind an enticing set of black velvet curtains is SEEN – the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. The mantra here is “Sin and be Seen”. And whilst grammatically speaking, the pun is a reach, the restaurant does exactly what it says on the tin. With its intimate banquettes, foliage and dim lighting, it’s a scene- even if you can’t see much. And though I can’t be sure how much sinning is going on (it’s in the eye of the beholder after all) I feel confident that if I did feel like sinning, that this might be a good place to do it.
A glance through the menu reveals that the suggested sin here is gluttony… ‘Burrata with Caviar’, ‘Lobster with Truffle’, ‘Dulce de Leche Souffle’ to name but a few. We begin fairly modestly with the Signature Tacos; piquant ceviche, guacamole and pomegranate make for a well-balanced dish. The Wagyu Gyoza (Hello decadence!) are are at once, melt-in-the-mouth and slightly crispy. Black Cod (yes, we’re getting a taste for it) comes perfectly flakey and marinated in salty miso upon a bed of snow peas. My husband orders the Wagyu Burger (because Wagyu the hell not?) and it comes perfectly cooked with a generous portion of crispy fries. To drink… a bottle of the slightly effervescent house Viñho Verde which compliments the fish beautifully.
As we finish ur main courses, the late night guests begin to trickle in. Each of them eager to be seen at SEEN. Even the waiters seem to be on a crusade to help you embrace decadence. Order the Wagyu, have truffle on it… caviar too, stick an umbrella in it and wash it down with a champagne cocktail that costs more than your return flight if you so desire! And don’t feel embarrassed about taking pictures of your food – because selfies are not only permitted here, they are encouraged.
For dessert, we share the Dulce de Leche Guava Souffle. It’s the definition of ‘camp’. Its sweetness on steroids. It’s ingestible Hubba Bubba; heady, intoxicating and unapologetically pink. But for all its sass, it is slightly undercooked, but more-ish all the same.
Breakfast is a quieter affair and thank goodness, because my head hurts. The made-to-order omelette station proves to be a favourite with my husband and there’s a healthy section too, with salad and fresh juices. Not that it’s of interest to me because I’ve recently developed a taste for decadence. I head straight to the pastry section and exhaust my daily Pasteis de Nata quota before I’ve even ventured out of the hotel… sinful indeed.
Out & About
This is the place for shopping. From Prada, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and Miu Miu to luxury local brands like Loja das Meias. Next door to the hotel is the most beautiful Massimo Dutti I have ever seen. Chandeliers, spiral staircases and twinkling chandeliers make it well worth a visit even if you don’t buy anything.
Fans of rowdy sing-song will find like minded souls at Betty’s Piano Bar which is just up the road at the back of the hotel. But make sure to go straight after dinner because it closes at 11pm.
The Crowd
International jet-set trendies. Local businessmen. Instagrammable types from all over the world.
The Worst Thing
Sadly the pool was closed during our stay. But by all accounts, it’s wonderful when open and about to get even better as it’s currently under refurbishment. The pool is still open at the weekends and promises to be back in action by midsummer.
The Best Thing
Much like Lisbon, the hotel feels fun and modern as well as maintaining traditional standards of service. What the Tivoli does so well, is make you feel extremely cared for, the dedicated staff are warm, well trained and informative. They’re are more than happy to help with travel logistics and reservations which gives you some more brain space to might find time for… I dunno… a little more decadence?
The Details
A room at The Tivoli Avenida Liberdade starts from £250/ night.
