The Credentials
Situated in Barnsley House, the former residence of esteemed garden designer, Rosemary Verey, The Pig, Cotswolds is the latest addition to Robin and Judy Hutson’s successful empire.
Whilst the rear of the 17th-century property looks out over one of England’s loveliest gardens, the front aspect enjoys views of picturesque Barnsley. It’s the type of village where one could shoot a 1950s murder mystery and the art department would scarcely have to lift a finger. There’s a traditional red telephone box, an 18th-century barn complete with teetering haystack and enough hobbity little cottages to house the entire Baggins family. in fact, there’s so much in this small village that’s ripe for preservation, that the Hutsons – with their reputation for sensitive renovation – seem like an obvious choice of custodian and have already enlisted their dedicated gardening team to restore and maintain Verey’s treasured garden.
But they’re not the first to fling wide the doors of this handsome property to paying guests. Barnsley House Hotel (as it was known until recently) once attracted such a flashy crowd that they had to install a helipad on the rear lawn. They also built several stand-alone rooms, now known as ‘The Stables’, a separate, larger car park and a spa, which houses treatment rooms, sauna/steam and a heated outdoor pool.
I visited The Pig Cotswolds, with my husband Alex and our eight-week-old daughter Clara, during a blustery evening on what felt like the two hundredth week of January 2025.
Style
The reception has an Italianate feel with lime-washed walls and Raphael-esque cherubim in gilt frames. In the library, a fire roars, cherry velvet chairs pop against creamy lilac walls. There are ancestral portraits and a teeny tiny side room big enough for just one chair. In The Fieldhouse Spa, traditional antiseptic decor has been shunned… in its place; seventies chintz, palm fronds, kelim and exposed stone – Jimi Hendrix himself wouldn’t look out of place in a towelling robe here.
Set apart from the main house, our stables room has its own private courtyard, double-height ceilings and exposed beams. There’s an agricultural-style chandelier and a mezzanine bathroom with a freestanding bath. In the bedroom, green velvet meets crisp linen and vintage light fittings. There’s a wood burning stove in one corner and the team kindly provided a cot and extra blankets for Clara.
Dine
We begin with The Pig’s signature ‘Fishy Bits’; crusty house-baked bread topped with creamy smoked cods roe topped with pickled cucumber. Cured scallop carpaccio zings in a fragrant lemon oil and radicchio with house-made ricotta is an absolute treat.
For the main course, we try the ‘Stargazer Monkfish’ which comes generously dosed in a gooey warm tartare. The confit duck is rich and delicate – as is the dauphinoise – pops of earthy, lemony greens from the Pig’s kitchen garden are the perfect accompaniment. For dessert, we chose the chocolate mousse with cherries. It’s slightly salty and wickedly indulgent – a theme which seems set to continue because…
The Pig have also taken the helm of Barnsley’s charming local pub, ‘The Village Inn’. My parents join us for another decadent meal on check-out day; highlights include… a truly excellent Bloody Mary (lots of horseradish), braised beef cheek, crispy, creamy chicken pie and a smokey mackerel pate with house pickles.
Breakfast is an exercise in the art of restraint. Earl Grey prunes, thyme-infused apricots, smoked trout royale and a ‘Full English’ of local provenance. Theres a granola to suit a whole spectrum of dietary requirements; Willy’s Apple Cider Vinegar in all the flavours and fresh juices to cure all manner of ills. There’s a perfectly laminated croissant as big as your head, homemade apple and chai muffins and a selection of local cheese and ham served with freshly churned butter. What a feast! As I gaze out across Rosemary Verey’s dewy winter garden, feeling irresponsibly full, I realise that the real pig here… is me.
Drink
I hit the cocktail list with the enthusiasm of someone who hasn’t had a drink for ten months. And what better way to ease back in than with a perfectly zingy house Margarita?
As we peruse the wine list, Ed, sommelier in residence, offers to take us on something of a viticultural journey. We begin in Chablis, with the crisp Chateau de Chemilly 1er Cru – an oystery white with notes of burnt match – it works beautifully with the Monkfish. Next to Germany with a light and dry red to cut throuogh the confit duck. We finish with a fruity Tesauro Valpolicella which has a sooty finish – which compliments the chocolate and cherries.
The Crowd
We visit mid-week in the middle of January- so unsurprisingly, the clientele is a mixture of eager freelancers and stylish retirees.
The Best Thing
The Pig in The Cotswolds is the first and only one in the group with a spa. An evening swim, sauna and steam set the mood perfectly for a decadent nights stay.
The Worst Thing
It’s very hard to fault, but visiting in January we weren’t able to appreciate the garden in all it’s glory. Never mind though, because we will be back soon to sip Chablis beneath the boughs of Rosemary’s ancient wisteria.
The Details
One nights stay at The Pig, Cotswolds starts from £225/night midweek. You can visit their website for current offers and prices.
