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The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia

Alison Harvey Barretto explores an ecological haven off Malaysia’s northwest coast, The Datai Langkawi

The Credentials

An archipelago of islands well known as a wildlife destination, Langkawi’s abundant fauna draws in travellers from across the world keen to spot birds, lizards, lemurs and more. In a place already thrumming with nature, The Datai offers its guests something truly special. 46 acres of ancient and highly protected rainforest backed by primordial mountains sweep down to the exquisite Datai Bay, a soft white sand beach that gazes out over the Thai island of Ko Tarutao.

The resort, which opened in 1993 and is one of South East Asia’s most eminent, takes its eco-credentials seriously. The hotel was a pioneer of now common hospitality initiatives such as no single-use plastics, water management and energy-saving programmes, but takes things further with the Datai Pledge. Developed by the resort’s own team of naturalists, conservationists and marine biologists in partnership with NGOs, the pledge operates a vast network of sustainability ventures that include reforesting, coral reef rehabilitation, and community and youth outreach. The effect for visitors is a green experience as close to unspoilt as you can get at a large, luxury hotel.

Natural wonders are far from the only trick up The Datai’s sleeve though. The property is also a beautiful example of subtle hotel building. Designed by famed architect Kerry Hill – best known for his work on many of the Aman hotel group’s resorts – the pavilions and villas that dot the site slot neatly in amongst its verdant foliage and appear to complement the landscape rather than blemish it. There are three excellent restaurants, a stylish sunken bar, a superb spa, multiple pools, over one hundred discreetly positioned rooms and villas, and a number of places to partake in craft or ecological pursuits.

Sleep

There are many room categories here that all offer quite different experiences. If you are inclined to a more typical hotel stay – with less worry about marauding monkeys – you may be well suited to the suites in the resort’s central building. But for most, the desire to immerse as fully into the landscape will lead them to either rainforest or beach villas. The moody forest options boast wooden construction, lovely canopied beds, impressive, oversized bathrooms and balconies reminiscent of traditional kampong-style houses. Some have jungle-backed pools that are perfect for a dip if the beach isn’t sunny.

Down on the beach, the rooms take on a slightly more contemporary design ethos. There’s more floor-to-ceiling glass and snaking plunge pools, but best of all is the direct access to the beach through a little gate at the back of each villa’s garden deck. For true high rollers, The Datai Estate Villa offers 3500 square feet of living space, a huge private pool, five bedrooms and a 24-hour butler service.

Dine

Start your evening with a drink at the bar which sits in front of the main pavilion’s huge lily pond. We tried a few cocktails, our favourite of which was the When in The Datai, a scrumptious mixture of Cointreau, grenadine, lime juice and chilli. From here, you have three options. The Gulai House, The Pavilion, and grandest of all, The Dining Room.

The Gulai House takes its architectural cue from traditional Malaysian village buildings and offers a cuisine to match. This is the place to try national and regional classics from satay to beef rendang with accompanying sambals. Over in the Pavilion, a magnificent building standing atop 30-metre stilts, the cuisine travels across the border to Thailand. Prepared by a very able Thai chef, the menu offers tasty favourites such as pandan-wrapped chicken, som tam, and massaman curry, alongside more inventive dishes such as steamed seafood souffle and red curried lobster. Try the Thab Thim Krob for pudding, a much loved Thai dessert of water chestnuts and coconut milk.

Chef Chai Chun Boon’s tasting menu in The Dining Room is an elegant, white tableclothed affair that uses European technique to execute a menu that takes Langkawi as inspiration. You’ll enjoy plates such as egg with caviar and jungle garlic, a crudo of local seafood and oyster blade beef served with coconut and potato cream. A well-chosen and priced wine pairing completes the romantic evening.

Breakfast is also taken in the dining room, and offers a buffet-style feast that spans both Asian and western cuisines. Our tip, head straight to the roti counter and request roti canai with fish curry. Crispy, chewy and unctuous, it’ll soon be your go-to breakfast.

Out & About

The Datai’s programme of activities is expansive and covers enough different areas that you’ll never be bored no matter what your interests. The Nature Centre is a great starting point, where you can talk with the naturalists to discover more about the site and drink tea made from specially prepared local infusions. Arrange with them guided beach walks, forest canopy hikes, or nature expeditions where you may spot giant hornbills, water monitors, flying lemurs and several species of sprightly monkeys.

We spent an early morning partaking in the centuries-old ritual of Mandi Embun, translated loosely as forest bathing. Our guide took us on a short hike to Crystal Creek, a small waterfall hidden in thick rainforest. On a platform nearby, you’ll complete some light yoga, breathing exercises and meditation, before taking an optional dip in the creek’s perfectly clear waters. The exercise concludes with tales of the island’s mythical past over fresh lemongrass tea. You may even be joined by some curious monkeys.

Elsewhere guests can taste local ingredients in the herb garden, join in with the harvest of stingless bee honey, kayak in mangroves, go stand-up paddle boarding and make candles in the sustainability workshop. Relax afterwards with a dip in the adult or family pools, a massage in the spa, or simply grab a sun lounger on the beach.

The Crowd

Whatever kind of traveller you are, you’ll be at home at The Datai. We saw couples, families with children, and groups of friends. Even solo travellers will find plenty to keep themselves occupied.

The Best Thing

It’s a cliché, but there are so many it’s hard to choose. The naturalists and their friendly, enthusiastic approach made every activity a joy. If you pick one, consider forest bathing; a rare chance for a moment of total peace in an utterly private slice of nature.

The Worst Thing


Much like all tropical holidays, mosquitos can be an occasional nuisance. Best cover up your arms and legs when exploring the wilds, and make use of the hotel’s complimentary bug spray.

The Details

The Datai, Jln teluk Datai, 07000 Langkawi, Kedah, Malaysia.
+60 4950 0500
www.thedatai.com