The Credentials
My mother and I arrive at The Cary Arms and Spa via Torquay’s branch of TK Maxx – because one of us (not me) forgot to bring our swimsuit. Unsurprisingly, the blissful tranquillity of Babbacombe Bay proved to be quite the welcome contrast to the over-lit chaos of Devon’s branch of Prince Harry’s favourite retail outlet.
The Cary Arms is positioned at the bottom of an extremely steep hill that gives way to crystal clear waters and a jewel-toned pebble beach. The village (which I later find out is largely owned by The Cary Arms) surrounds the bay like a Roman amphitheatre; meaning that every cottage, cranny and crevice seems to be blessed with uninterrupted views of the big deep blue.
Sleep
We stayed in Cove Cottage. A three-bedroom Victorian Villa with church-style windows and a trellised wrap-around balcony. Mum claimed the master bedroom on the ground floor (because she hates stairs and age before beauty) and I made myself at home in the attic bedroom (because I sneakily noticed it has a generous bathtub).
But there’s no short straw… because the rooms are all thoughtfully designed and each one has a spectacular vista. The sitting room has an open log fire and is opulently decorated with 18th century chandeliers, velvet sofas and one of those ornate gilt mirrors that we later discover hides a flat screen tv with all the streamers (whoop!).
The kitchen is extremely well appointed – an attribute that turned out to be rather wasted on us because we were so busy relaxing, we didn’t even think about turning the oven on. Luckily the generous folk at The Cary Arms do room service and they also provide a welcome hamper of Burt’s crisps, more Kit Kats than is probably advisable and a vintage decanter full of syrupy Sloe Gin.
Dine
Breakfast is served on blue and white chequered tablecloths in a conservatory that is designed to make the best of… (you guessed it!) more sea views. The full English is locally sourced and of high quality. There are kippers, eggs in many ways and a selection of fresh fruit, croissants and granola. And if, by chance, you momentarily tire of panoramic sea views… there’s the morning paper to peruse.
Dinner takes place in the ancient inn, which forms part of the hotel. Its low ceilings and exposed beams give it a ship-like feel. The air seems thick with smugglers’ secrets, you can smell the history here and you can read about it too – a newspaper cutting in the old bar tells the spooky tale of local ne’er-do-well John Babbacombe Lee, The Man they Coudn’t Hang. And I hope that gruesome legend doesn’t put you off your dinner, because the pan-seared Brixham Scallops are excellent. Served on a creamy celeriac puree, they are perfectly cooked and are complimented beautifully by a delicately frizzante glass of Portuguese Vinho Verde.
For the main course, we had the Brixham Battered Fish and Chips and the Trio of Fish. The food is simple but affordable. The fish is impeccably fresh and the portions generous. So generous in fact, that we only managed to share a pudding between us. The espresso creme brulee is a fun twist on the French classic, enjoyed more by me, than my traditionalist Maman.
The next evening due to extreme fatigue following a full body massage (more on this later) we order room service to the cottage that is delivered piping hot in the taxi by the lovely Tracey and team. Cajun chicken wings, zingy salad and gooey brownie in melted chocolate sauce made for the perfect girl’s-night-in dinner.
Out & About
If, unlike me, you fear you may grow weary of eating, drinking and being gently massaged in hot oil – there are plenty of other things to do. In warmer months, the hotel offers sea kayaking, mackerel fishing, paddle boarding and excursions aboard the Cary Arms’ very own classic wooden sailing yacht ‘Escape’.
A walk around the cove will take you to picture-perfect Oddicombe Beach, which has its own cafe and funicular railway, and don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for Cary Arms favourite ‘Sammy the Seal’ and his slightly more elusive pod of dolphin friends.
The Spa
The spa features a jet pool, a steam room, sauna, sundeck and a small but well-equipped gym. I was lucky enough to experience a full body massage from the extremely gifted Louise, who used warm uplifting Gaia oils with lemongrass and peppermint. I floated back up the hill to the cottage and felt absolutely wiped out for the rest of the day, but the softening effects linger well into the week that follows.
The Crowd
We visit mid-week and off-season, so the crowd are mainly well-to-do retirees. I imagine that the cottages attract young families during the summer holidays and the restaurant is clearly a favourite amongst locals as it’s packed, even on a Monday in blustery March.
The Best Thing
Whilst the setting is jaw-dropping, a fair portion of this fine work can be attributed to mother nature’s skilled hand. So I would suggest that it’s the people that make this place special. The staff are infallibly friendly, nothing was too much trouble: there was always someone on hand to drive Mum up the hill in their dedicated onsite taxi. The young restaurant staff was chatty, bright and seemed happy to be there despite inevitably early starts and late finishes.
The Worst Thing
Whilst the cottage we stayed in was classic and traditional in its style, the decor in some of the other rooms was a little lacklustre for my taste. But I suspect, given the location, they’re trying to keep it simple in order to appeal to everyone.
And so as I reluctantly pootle up the M4, I lament the lack of pristine bays, fresh scallops and friendly neighbourhood seals in West London – although I did see a seal in The Thames once, but on reflection, he didn’t seem particularly impressed with our neck of the woods.
The Details
A Luxury Sea View Room starts at £415/night B&B and up to £455 in high season. £475 B&B for a Beach Hut and Beach Suites from £515 per night.
01803 327 110
