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The Buxton Cresent

We visited the Peak District in style at the historical spa, Buxton Crescent

What They Say

Buxton Crescent is the reincarnation of two once-upon-a-time, grand and gracious hotels, well known throughout Georgian England as the premier resting place for stylish spa seekers who came from all over the country to bathe in the thermal waters of Buxton. It became a spa destination in Roman times when a settlement was built around a clear, warm-water spring that still sends up more than one million litres a day from the original source underneath the Buxton Crescent.

In a historic setting, Buxton Crescent offers traditional hydrotherapy, luxury spa treatments, lifestyle programmes and healthy cuisine, all the five-star amenities that discerning health travellers look for.

Sleep

Our suite was indulgently expansive: it consisted of three separate rooms, living quarters, a black and white tiled shower room, a separate area with a bath and a sleek modern four-poster bed. The rooms sported black and white decor, with vintage-style patterned grey wallpaper and an impressive glass chandelier. The aesthetic was topped with a view of the historic Buxton crescent and park, which, by the way, you can view from your impressive roll-top bath – if you’re feeling extra indulgent and dare to pull up the blinds.

Dine

We met with the waiting team as we walked up the stairs to the dining room for dinner, who sat us down and left us perusing it to the sound of instrumentals of I will Always Love You and the Godfather theme coming from the speakers. The hotel – which covers most of the famous crescent building – can be quite a maze, so I was grateful that there was always a member of staff on hand to help us navigate our way!

The restaurant provided us with two menus to mix and match: the set menu and the a la carte, consisting of a number of meat and fish-based dishes (less so on the veggie options). After we’d ordered our mains, the waiter selected a deliciously rich, full-bodied Bordeaux to go with the meal.

To start, I went for the risotto, which was a very generous portion for a starter – I could have had it as a main! It was made with a rich Dovetail blue cheese, pine nuts and charred tenderstem broccoli, which was cooked to a crunchy finish and made for an excellent textural accomplice to the soft cheese and rice base. My guest chose the carpaccio, which was delicately flavoured, beautifully presented and, again, an ample portion for those who really want to get a good meal in. 

We then moved to the mains, already starting to feel full as we’d been gifted with warm, fresh bread alongside our starters, but were determined to see what else the chefs had in store for us. I went for the fillet steak and I was not disappointed. The meat was tender and cut through like butter. The charred baby vegetables, morel mushroom ketchup and wild garlic pesto garnish worked to lighten the saltiness of the beef. It’s so easy to rest on your laurels when you know you’ve selected a premium cut of beef, but the chefs at the Buxton Crescent pulled out all the stops with this dish.

My guest had the crisp belly of Blythbourgh pork. I personally think it is quite difficult to cook pork belly well, but this was really something: the layers are all really balanced and it is complemented excellently by the cauliflower tips and Mayan Gold cream potato, cauliflower purée, romanesque and cider dream.

For deserts, my guest went for the double chocolate marquise – a fluffy and creamy dish with banana ice cream (made with fresh banana) and pistachio custard, both of which gave the rich chocolate a real sweet kick. The dish was rich and indulgent, a grand finish to the meal

I selected the Panne Cotta, which came with lemon sorbet (not too sweet) and white chocolate Namelaka, garnished with mint and a ginger sponge. Given its creamy consistency, it wasn’t too much after such a hearty meal – though we did have to ask the waiter to hold off on taking our desert orders for a full fifteen minutes after our mains. 

The breakfast buffet consisted of a selection of charcuterie, cheeses, cereals and pastries. After a heavy evening of eating, I went for the fruits, which included fresh grapefruit, melon, and healthy smoothies in little bottles with straws. Everything came in small portions, but this was just as well, as there was so much to try. The fresh juices were particularly delicious.

From the kitchen, I tried the scotch pancakes with blueberries and creme fraiche. Sometimes I find a pancake dish to be overwhelming, but this was just the right-sized portion, and so perfectly crispy! The creme fraiche and blanched blueberries were a perfect addition, with so much flavour.  You can also choose from the classics, of course: porridge, a full English, a full veggie and eggs Benedict and Florentine.

Out & About

Buxton itself is a historic town, with lots of little shops and cafes to visit, an opera house, and some beautiful Victorian gardens. There are plenty of country walks in the Peak District, including Poole’s Cavern (which you can explore with the family!).

The star of the town though is the hot baths. Only three places in the world have access to Buxton water: Nestle (who sell it), St Anne’s Well – a single public fountain opposite the Crescent – and the very hotel we were staying at.

The first thing we did when we entered the spa was swim in the freshwater pools, which were beautifully presented, with Victorian glass ceilings above one and a night sky created out of lights above another. I’d never have thought that any water could feel lighter and fresher than any other water (it’s all water, right?) but – for want of a much better phrase – I felt like one of the swimmers in the Evain adverts. Bliss.

They have a selection of rooms and experiences at the spa: from thermal pools to infrared saunas to treatment rooms; pretty much everything your heart desires from a spa experience.

I also experienced a perfect deep tissue massage whilst I was there and left the room in a bit of a daze after having my muscles loosened and knots craftily worked out.

The Crowd

The hotel only properly opened during the dreaded lockdown, so at the moment the clientele is mainly locals. However, I don’t expect this hotel will remain a hidden secret for long.

The Best Thing

Buxton is the lesser explored Bath of the north, and being in the middle of the peak district, you could spend a good week exploring everything it has to offer.

The Worst Thing

The only thought I had was that the decor in places such as the dining room didn’t quite match up to the splendour of the spa or our beautiful suite, but that is a very small thought after a relaxing and indulgent weekend away.

The Details

Rooms at the hotel start at £222.85 and include spa access and breakfast.

www.ensanahotels.com/buxton