The Credentials
Winter’s coming, and one of the best things about the cold, bleak days, is warming up inside a lovely country pub, with a blazing fire and something delicious to eat and drink.
Set on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, in the quaint town of Sedbergh, the Black Bull is stylish and modern, yet still oozes classic pub charm. The 17th-century coaching Inn is situated on Main Street – a narrow cut of crooked historic buildings – home to cafes, mountaineering shops, quirky wine producers, and book shops. The latter being one of the most unique features of this little town, as it’s one of only three UK book towns (Wigtown and Hay-on-Wye are the other two).
When it comes to food, the Black Bull is one of the best around. In fact, it’s one of the top 50 gastropubs in the UK. From breakfast until dinner, head chef Nina Matsunaga serves food that will surprise and delight you, from lamb tartare to a proper Yorkshire roast dinner.
Sleep
There are 18-bedrooms in the hotel (three rooms are dog-friendly), and each one is named after a different fell – the room I stayed in was called ‘Docker Knott’. Now, these aren’t your average pub rooms. They’re sleek, luxurious, and clutter-free, with great attention to detail. The first thing I noticed is that we had real milk in the room, left in a small flask so that it stayed cold. There were also freshly made biscuits, a pot for tea – Yorkshire of course – and a small cafetiere. The beds are large, with crisp white sheets and soft bedding, the kind you melt into when your head touches the pillow.
The most prominent feature in each room is the bathroom. Modern and bright, with a beautiful deep bath with vintage taps, and a separate shower. One feature that may be an opinion-splitter, is that the bathroom is see-through, with just a large glass panel separating it from the main room. There is a modesty curtain for those who wish for a little more secrecy – I was particularly thankful for this as I was sharing the room with a friend, not a partner.
Dine
After a long day trail running in the fells, my friend and I spent our sunday afternoon by the fire, sampling the local beer, reading, talking, and laughing. So humble. So… unapologetically British.
Given that we were dining on a sunday evening, it would have been rude not to sample the roast. For this, we moved into the restaurant area, which was a little more sophisticated than where we’d previously been sat. Alongside the classic roast, the menu also featured some interesting combinations, such as Lamb Tartare with cured egg yolk, puffed rice, and kimchi, and Jerusalem Artichokes with ewes curd and cobnuts (like a hazelnut). These interesting and wonderful combinations are thanks to head chef Nina, who was born in Dusseldorf, Germany, to Japanese parents. The two very different cultures have been hugely influential in the food she creates.
To start, we sampled both the lamb (it being such a rarity to have it in the form of a tartare) and the artichokes. Both were absolutely delicious, with real care taken in the presentation, and in balancing of flavours and textures. I loved the crunch of the nuts and the perfectly cooked artichokes.
For our mains, we both had roast beef. The meat was still blushing, which is just how I like it, although I must admit, it was the vegetables that stole the show for me – far too many places cook them until they turn to mush, but beneath the meat were whole roasted carrots, stem broccoli, kale, and cabbage – it was a very generous portion too. A few roasted potatoes on the side and a drizzle of thick gravy made this dish a true winner. Our fancy bottle of red wine from Croatia only heightened the flavours and our overall experience – the wine list is fabulous if you’re into your wines.
We ended our meal on a sweet note. I took the chocolate cremeux, with hazelnut, praline and pear, and my friend the sticky toffee pudding and ice cream. The Chocolate Cremeux was everything I love in a dessert: chocolatey but not too rich, nutty, and well-balanced, with the pears cutting through the sweetness. The one bite of the sticky toffee I managed to steal was delicious, but something you really need to be hungry for, given its rich sauce.
The following morning, we went down to breakfast, which is also served in the main restaurant area. There’s no buffet, it’s table service only, but that didn’t bother us, as we’d much rather have a freshly cooked breakfast. Options included granola and yoghurt, fresh fruit, a full English with local meats, creamy mushrooms on sourdough, poached eggs, mackerel, and Welsh Rarebit. We both selected the creamy wild mushrooms, to which we added a couple of poached eggs. The delicious breakfast was washed down with fresh juice (grapefruit, apple or orange), and a pot of tea. It set us up perfectly for a day out exploring.
Out and about
Most people wouldn’t head to Yorkshire unless they enjoy exploring the outdoors (whatever the weather), or enjoy wandering around characteristic towns and villages. Behind the Black Bull is a huge range of hills, with routes starting straight from the front door. The weekend we stayed, we embarked on a 17km circular route, climbing three fells, and the following day walked alongside the river, meandering through the town and admiring the beautiful school buildings.
The great thing about the Black Bull is that it’s just a 15-minute drive from the M6, and on the other side of this busy road is the Lake District, so it’s the perfect location if you want to explore both the Dales and the Lakes. For more inspiration, take a look here.
The Crowd
The hotel was mostly full of couples, aged around 40 to 65 (I think we were the youngest, at 30). Being a weekend, I think everyone was there for the same reason, for a little ‘staycation’, but I imagine, during the week, it’s a popular spot for those on business in the area too. You can tell it’s a favourite for locals as well, with many popping in for a Sunday pint or roast dinner.
The Worst Thing
We hadn’t been told that we needed to book a reservation for our breakfast (just like you would for dinner), which meant when we realised, the only slot we could get was 9am – OK if you don’t have 9am meetings. For many, this won’t be a problem but it’s just something to note in case you have an agenda to stick to.
The Best Thing
I love a good mix of relaxation and adventure – and the Black Bull offered it all. If you’re going to go hiking in the blistering wind and heavy rain, knowing a warm bubble bath, fire and hearty meal awaits is one of the only ways to do it. The staff too were particularly accommodating and the cleanliness of the Inn was of a very high standard.
The details
Rooms start from around £125 per night, for two, including breakfast. Dinner is an additional cost, though some packages do include dinner too.
www.theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk
The Black Bull, 44 Main Street, Sedbergh, Cumbria
015396 20264
