“Throw down a seed and it will sprout into a tree in no time,” as they proudly say on St Lucia. The island stands out for its fertility; self-sufficient in every kind of flora and fauna, there’s poverty but no shortage of food. Organic produce is hawked at roadside stalls and building new homes begins with plantation first, construction second.
More than anywhere, St Lucia is best visited by being on the move. The thing to do is to change hotels every few days, so I decided to work my way up the island by road and boat from the international airport in the south.
Viceroy Sugar Beach
My first stop was the Viceroy Sugar Beach. This American hotel has surely secured the choice location of the island, between the famous twin peaks of Gros and Petit Piton, precipitous mountains that climb over two thousand feet and are the consequence of an historic earthquake. At the hotel the imported Guyanese white sand looks stunning and the New England style of the villas’ all-white interiors reinforced the sense of light, purity and space.
Capella Marigot Bay
Onto Capella Marigot Bay, a different kind of idyll overlooking a marina, which emphasises the nautical character of St Lucia, with premier yachts from all over the world berthed safely in its waters. The bay is known as ‘Hurricane Hole’, surrounded as it is by mountains on the island’s west side, which protect it from tidal changes and extreme weather. Yachties tinker with their equipment in the serenity of the secluded, secure marine haven; a serenity that is reflected in the philosophy of the hotel.
Capella has spacious chalet suites presented in a half-colonial, half-ranch style with dark wood and strong linear design. The Grill at 14⁰61⁰ has delicious fresh meat and fish, seasoned with herbs and spices picked from the hotel’s private garden and paired with locally sourced fruits and vegetables. The Rum Cave, meanwhile, has a youthful vibe and wicker nest seating area overlooking the marina, while the swimming pool up the top of the hotel has barstools set into the water.
A massage at the hotel’s Auriga Spa involved a mixture of hot stones warming, bamboo pressing and volcanic mud wrapping the body. It sent me into a blissfully deep relaxation. Dolphin-watching is also an unmissable experience; seeing them eating, leaping and playing in their natural habitat is an unbelievable joy.
The hotel really lived up to high expectations, with timely indulgent surprises offered up across the day, and the almost telepathic service and personal touch of its staff made all the difference.
St. James’s Morgan Bay
As I moved up the island, the vegetation changed and the sand became whiter. Next up was St. James’s Morgan Bay. Beautifully set to the sound of lapping waves, it not only boasts views of the sea offering stunning sunsets, but the rooms have double balconies to watch them from.
There’s a spoiling range of six restaurants and always somewhere open to eat; Le Jardin is for the fine diners while The Bamboo has fabulous seafood salads. It’s also an excellent choice for those preferring organised entertainment. They lent me a sailing catamaran and off I went, after only one lesson. How liberating! And with their rescue service—how reassuring!
Cap Maison
Next on past Castries, the capital, and to Cap Maison. This boutique villa resort, once a private house, has been cleverly extended and has a Mediterranean feel—Spanish meets Moroccan. Walking beneath crenellated roofs, past trickling fountains, under vaulted brick corridors and through inner courtyards with birds twittering, I half expected to be responding to pealing church bells. It is located on the northernmost tip of Cap Estate, a highly exclusive area.
Dramatic cliff scenery offsets the tranquil waters of the Caribbean Sea on one side and the brisk Atlantic Ocean to the other. The grounds are tropically landscaped with carpet-mossy grass, while rooms are bedecked in Manuel Canovas cushions.
Chef Nico for The Cliff at Cap restaurant offered a delicious seafood chowder, as champagne was delivered in a basket to diners fifty feet below via a zipwire. Very James Bond! And, with zipwire excursions a popular feature across the island, very St. Lucia.
I went through a secret door that led me seductively down some stairs to a pretty, secluded ‘Smugglers Cove’. This charming beach was perfect for bathing, with a hammock dangling temptingly at one end and a tribal-faced rock perched at the other. Locals use the beach too and the neighbouring Naked Fisherman restaurant gave me the freshest and most delightful of mahi mahi dishes.
I returned back down the Atlantic coast to the accompaniment of the brightest rainbow I had ever witnessed, a aptly magnificent send-off to such a colourful island.
