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Spier Wine Farm, Stellenbosch

Katherine Brook visits the family-run Spier Wine Farm, South Africa

The Credentials

Located on one of the oldest wine farms in South Africa, just a few miles outside of Stellenbosch, Spier hotel offers a family-friendly stay with an abundance of activities for everyone to enjoy. Family-owned, Spier is one of the top 100 vineyards in the world, and alongside its award-winning wines are an array of restaurants, bakeries, gardens, and one of South Africa’s largest contemporary art collections. Hotel guests have access to the whole estate, including the fruit and veg farm, beautifully manicured gardens, and running and cycling trails.

Sleep

The hotel is situated on the far right of the estate, near the Eerste River. It almost feels like a quaint village, with semi-detached houses lining the paths. There are a total of 80 rooms, clustered around six courtyards, each with its own small swimming pool – there is a larger one just a short walk away.

Guests can choose between signature rooms, signature garden terrace rooms, signature riverside rooms, signature riverside terrace rooms, and suites. The rooms are decorated in a calm neutral colour palette with warm wooden furniture, splashes of vibrant colour, and beautiful artwork. Beds are large, soft, and comfortable, with fluffy sheets and pillows. In each room, you’ll find a small fridge, stocked regularly with water, and an array of coffee and tea. The hotel also kindly gifts guests a bottle of Spier wine to enjoy.

Bathrooms are bright and airy, with a bath and large shower. Shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and moisturiser are all provided by the hotel. While all the rooms are beautiful, I highly recommend getting a room on the riverside – it’s a lovely, quiet spot to sit and relax.

Dine

There are a variety of eateries on the estate, in addition to the main hotel restaurant – guests are welcome to dine at any. Choose from Vadas Smokehouse and Bakery, which uses organically farmed meats to create dishes like juicy smoked pork and beef brisket, as well as fresh bread and sweet treats. There’s also the Farm Cafe, which has ready-to-eat meals, toasties and drinks – it’s a great spot for a mid-morning pastry and a coffee. The hotel restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s very much farm-to-plate, with everything served either grown on the farm or sourced locally. From vibrant salads to fresh fish and loaded burgers, the chef puts great care into creating delicious dishes from the best seasonal ingredients. A few favourites of mine were the trout and fennel salad, and the mussels, which are steamed with Spier’s MCC (sparkling wine, made in the traditional champagne way), and served with toasted garlic baguette. Of course, I wasn’t short of wine to accompany my meals, and the waiter was only too happy to recommend a pairing.

Breakfast is quite the feast: fresh fruit, pastries, bread, yoghurt, homemade granola, and all the components for a traditional English breakfast – done the South African way – are available for guests to help themselves to. Then there’s the ‘hot station’, where you can request things like poached eggs, pancakes, and omelette. Poached eggs and salmon on toasted rye was my go-to every morning.

The hotel also offers picnics, which guests can enjoy on the lawn, in the magnificent gardens. Picnics cost R295 per person (about £14) and I promise you won’t be leaving hungry. Large wicker baskets are filled with a selection of cheese, chutney, charcuterie, pickles, cooked meats, salads, fresh baguettes, and sweet treats like nutty caramel pie. There’s also a vegetarian option.

Out and About

Being in the Winelands and just a short drive from the main town of Stellenbosch, you’ll never be short of things to do. Spier offers the best of both worlds: activities for those who like to get their hearts racing and tranquillity for those who want some downtime. If you’re staying at Spier for a few nights, take a trip into town and wander the streets, full of wine bars, independent shops, and restaurants. Visit Franschhoek and jump on the wine tram – you’ll be surprised at how many farms you can visit in one day!

But if you’re just visiting Spier for a night or two, I recommend making the most of the activities available. Enjoy a wine tasting experience in the first-class tasting rooms and admire the iconic Heath Nash chandelier hanging above the counter, made from 334 recycled Spier wine bottles. Or why not take the bikes out for a spin around the trails? If culture and art are more your thing, enjoy a walk around the grounds and admire the beautiful flowers and art that line the pathways. If you want to relax, treat yourself to a massage at the spa, then soak up the sun by the pool.

The Crowd

The hotel was mostly full of couples, aged roughly 25 – 65. Many of the people who I met were from South Africa, as I visited out of season but this should be on anyone’s list who’s visiting the Winelands. The wine farm is of course open to the public too, although it never feels overcrowded and busy.

The Worst Thing

I think it was just bad luck, but the bike I took for a spin had a very wobbly seat, which kept tilting upwards. Best to give the bike a good once-over before you jump on!

The Best Thing

I am someone who loves a good balance of health and indulgence, and Spier offers this in true South African style. A typical day starts with a trip to the gym or a cycle, followed by a long breakfast. Maybe a little stroll around the estate or a visit to town afterwards. Afternoons are for relaxing and drinking wine, before feasting on the chef’s daily delights.

The Details

Rooms start at R2,200/£110, in low season, and all bookings include breakfast and a complimentary bottle of wine. Keep an eye on the website too, as there are often brilliant deals.

R310 Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch, South Africa
+27 (21) 809 1100
reservations@spier.co.za
www.spier.co.za