The Credentials
If you’re in the mood for a break that oozes pure Downton Abbey chic, you could do worse than seek out the delightful Middlethorpe Hall in north Yorkshire. Found a mere 2 miles away from York city centre, in the middle of lush parklands, it features an award-winning AA rosette restaurant, spa facilities, extensive private gardens and grounds, and 29 cosy guestrooms and suites.
Originally built in 1699, its 300+ year history has seen it serve as home to Lords and Ladies, the beautiful grounds have nurtured the talents of England’s first professional female gardener Fanny Rollo Wilkinson, and for a brief spell in the 1900s, it was converted both into a boarding school and then latterly a nightclub! The Hall was finally donated to the National Trust in 2008, who thankfully have restored it to its historic glory, meaning any budding Lord and Lady Granthams can indulge their stately home fantasies to the full.
Sleep
The main house itself features 10 bedrooms and 2 suites, all individually decorated with fine artworks and sympathetic antique furnishings. A further 4 suites and 13 bedrooms can be found separate from the main house in the 18th Century courtyard block.
In the main house, high ceilings and huge sash windows bathe the rooms in natural sunshine, with plush window seats to take in the view of either the south lawns or Beech Avenue. Nespresso coffee machines and flatscreen TVs/DVD players are more 21st century luxuries, and the bathrooms come well-stocked with Penhaligon Quercus toiletries.
We were assigned a beautiful, airy room with a luscious four-poster-bed overlooking gorgeous views of the parklands (we even spotted wild deer during the evening) and can attest both to an all-pervading atmosphere of calm and an excellent night’s sleep.
Dine
It must be said that the restaurant is where Middlethorpe really shines. Dinner, luncheon, and a delightful afternoon tea are an absolute treat, and it’s easy to see how they have won Restaurant of the Year in the Visit York awards twice. Head Chef Ashley Binder doesn’t put a foot wrong in his excellent tasting menu (£95), nor the more traditional dinner menu (£62 for two courses/£79 for three courses). Who knew pea velouté could be so layered and satisfying? The crab ravioli was a triumph of technique and simplicity, the herb-fed chicken was umami-rich and lip-smacking, and just when I thought I couldn’t eat any more, the strawberry cannelloni was a perfectly balanced blast of refreshment. Definitely a destination restaurant in its own right!
There is also an inventive afternoon tea on offer (£39 pp), which is so beautifully executed that it was tempting to order it two days running (their version of the humble sausage roll and white chocolate pavlova may well both take the titles of Best Ever).
Breakfast is generous, with a traditional ‘Yorkshire’ offering of a full fry-up, beautifully fluffy pancakes, and eggs done several ways, as well as a continental buffet of pastries, yoghurts and fruit.
Out & About
York is moments away; either by car, bus or taxi (if you’d like to take advantage of the nightlife and not have to watch your alcohol intake). Resplendent with museums, historic architecture, shopping, bars, restaurants, cinemas and theatre, York has something for pretty much everyone. The grounds of Middlethorpe are also worth exploring, whether for a leisurely stroll through the parklands or to find a quiet corner in the magnificent walled gardens in which to sit and while away the hours in peace.
The Crowd
This being an NT location, it’s perhaps unsurprising that this property seems to very much attract an older crowd. Certainly, we were joined at breakfast by many golden oldies, and a lot of international tourists wanting to soak up an ‘English historical’ atmosphere, but there was a smattering of younger couples too. One thing that may be a plus to many; this didn’t seem quite the place for families with smaller children (so certainly a place for plenty of peace and quiet).
The Worst Thing
Speaking of peace and quiet; the downside to being so well-connected to York is that the nearby A road is very audible from pretty much anywhere on the property (which dampens the country house idyll only slightly). Also, this being a genuinely historic property, the odd creaky floorboard as your neighbours walk the corridors or the rattle of the sash windows in the wind may disturb some (but may likewise charm others).
The Best Thing
The food at Middlethorpe (especially dinner and afternoon tea) deserves all the praise I can throw its way; I’ve eaten less well in Michelin-starred restaurants! And a warmer staff you could not hope to meet; everyone was eager to help and made us feel like (the Grantham) family from the moment we arrived.
The Details
Middlethorpe Hall & Spa, Bishopthorpe Road, York, YO23 2GB
01904 641241
info@middlethorpe.com
Rooms start at £164 per night
