The Credentials:
A fine Victorian country house overlooking John Constable’s much-painted Suffolk countryside, Maison Talbooth Hotel has been extensively and tastefully refurbished in recent years and has three new suites among its 12 unique bedrooms, several of which have panoramic views over rolling Dedham Vale. Swimming, outdoor tennis and day spa treatments are all on hand and the hotel is only a two-hour drive from west London.
Dine:
The hotel’s two AA rosette Le Talbooth restaurant is within a beautiful 15th century timbered building, a very short drive from the hotel by courtesy car. In summer you can dine beneath elegant canopies alongside the river but we arrived on a chilly November evening and were warmed by the welcome of the attentive staff and roaring log fires.
The restaurant has three dining rooms and offers locally-sourced traditional food alongside international haute cuisine with a fine selection of wines, many of which are South African. My starter was a thin and delicious fillet of dry-aged Dedham beef rossini with rosti potato, spinach and Madeira jus.
For the main course, my sister had a perfectly cooked wild sea bass, with texturally contrasting spaetzle, parsley root and chestnut. She was surprised by a patch of unexpected saltiness that she assumed to be a gastro error. We concluded the meal with a contrasting hot orange soufflé housing organic, choc chip ice-cream, topped with a shot of Cointreau. It was accompanied by an impressive flight of dessert wines, each richer than the last. The delightful and knowledgeable sommelier declared the last wine to be, ‘like Christmas Pudding in a glass.’
The alternative restaurant for this hotel is The Bistro, which is a short drive in the opposite direction. Afternoon teas and light lunches are available in the Garden Room at the hotel.
Sleep:
Each of the 12 unique and comfortable bedrooms is named after a great poet. Ours was one of the smaller bedrooms with grand furniture that was somewhat oversized for the space. The Egyptian cotton bed linen, goose feather duvets and the plethora of plump pillows were all very inviting. So were the spacious bathrooms that boast concept lighting, walk-through power showers and roll-top baths.
Some rooms seemed to have access to their own outdoor hot tub but with the hotel’s elegant outdoor pool (heated to 85°C all year round) and a large main hot tub available to all its guests we did not feel deprived. The bedrooms are all traditional in design but are nonetheless, fully furnished with a Bose Sound Radio, CD player, Sky TV and free wi-fi.
Who Goes There?
Sophisticated spa goers. Families with older children will enjoy the all-season outdoor pool and adjoining tennis courts (astro turf). With only twelve bedrooms, this hotel is the ideal size to take over as a venue for a big family house party or for a small, corporate retreat.
Out & About:
The hotel is just a walk or short drive or reasonable walk away from the picturesque town of Dedham. From April to October rent a rowing boat from The Boathouse restaurant. We cheated and drove to Flatford Mill, an area managed by National Trust and possessing Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty status. Here you can wander at will along the banks of the Stour, along lanes and across fields or join a guided walk, to stand where Constable painted and immortalized scenes, around 200 years ago. Stroll through the RSPB Wildlife Garden and meadows before heading back to refresh at the riverside tea shop. Art enthusiasts may also want to visit Munnings Museum or art galleries in Dedham, such as Shakespeare’s House.
The Worst Thing:
On arrival, we had difficulty finding a parking space in a crowded car park but were helped quickly by observant and attentive staff.
The Best Thing:
The undercover seating around the outdoor woodburner by the pool.
