Lime Wood is a laidback but luxurious spa hotel and restaurant run by chefs Angela Hartnett and Luke Holder.
Set within The New Forest National Park, I approach Lime Wood with my best friend Flo in tow, on a wet and misty January afternoon. The location feels rural, without actually being remote. Lime Wood is just moments from the market town of Lyndhurst and a mere 90-minutes from West London. That said, the discreet signage seems to pop up out of nowhere – so much so – that we almost drive straight past. Our arrival is heralded by a herd of wild ponies and a minor flood. Thanks to January’s incessant rain, the river that runs along the perimeter of the property appears to have burst its banks, serving as a temporary moat and deterrent for diners less eager than we. We hand over the car keys to Frank, the Belstaff-clad-valet and the charming duty manager, Jane, shows us to our room… which turns out to be a two-story suite.
Sleep
Crescent Room number five is part Georgian folly, part hobbity cottage. It features a cosy sitting room with open fire and a marble-topped mini bar resplendent with goodies… cocktails, champagne, tempting snacks and an enviable collection of crystal glassware. As well as ample living space, there is an outdoor terrace with roses and a mature hedge providing year-round privacy.
Up the stone spiral staircase – helpfully studded with sunken spotlights – is our capacious bedroom. There’s an enormous four-poster, ensuite and another open fire. The bathroom has a heated marble floor, a freestanding bathtub, rain shower and a separate loo. The woodwork has been stylishly painted in a rich matte terracotta and there’s a stunning silhouetted print of palm trees in the loo which I mean to ask after, but never do.
Style
The main house – parts of which can be traced back to mid-thirteenth-century – is a former royal hunting lodge. In keeping with it’s grand heritage, the property was later redeveloped and now boasts an eclectic mix of architectural influence. The hotel has thirty-three bedrooms, some in the main building and others, like ours, dotted across the grounds.
In the restaurant, there are vintage verdigris light fixtures and a dangerous-looking, traditional charcuterie slicer on the bar. Scarlet leather chairs meet vanilla hued walls and creamy velvet curtains. It certainly puts one in the mood for Italian food and is…. dare I say it… rather sexy.
In the courtyard bar, the vibe is contemporary but restrained. Stylish duck egg, burnt orange and daffodil yellow dominate. The artwork is a mix of modern prints and oils depicting everything form bucolic scenes to pastel-hued abstract form. The space is bright and airy during daylight hours and the foliage and botanical upholstery reminds us that this space was once a garden. In the sitting room, the pink velvet sofas with shimmering fringe will put you in the mood for a cocktail!
Drink
Just as well, because… the menu is extensive. My teetotal companion is delighted to pick up a fifteen-page ‘non-alcoholic’ bar menu. She’s pleased further by the fact that it isn’t labelled as such (apparently, one of the burdens of being a non-drinker, is constantly having to explain to why you don’t drink). She has a ‘Spiced Spritz’, followed by a virgin ‘Lemon Drop’ and is equally thrilled with both.
In the name of equilibrium, I order a Dirty Martini. It’s eye-wateringly strong… just the way I like it. I also enjoy a couple of glasses of the house blend Vermentino Sangiovese with dinner.
Eat
The Italian themed H, H & co. is a nod to Angela’s heritage. There is a focus on local, seasonal produce. The menus are at once simple and luxurious: traditional classics are full of character and elevated without being pretentious.
The first thing we taste is the focaccia – and I’m already sold – it is fluffy, crunchy and drenched in a peppery olive oil. The homemade charcuterie wakes up our tastebuds with a boisterous hit of Hungarian paprika. Beef Tartare is perfectly seasoned, mixed with lots of herbs, capers and arrives hidden beneath an avalanche of black truffle. It’s a similar story for the white asparagus which is perfectly sweet and tender.
The Beef Ragu is beautifully rich – I’m glad we share it – because the Pork Loin is too, served in an unctuous jus with spinach from the garden.
We are so full when we finish the main course, that we insist on taking a break before desert, hoping to rally. I’m ashamed to say we don’t. But if we had, I’d have chosen the tiramisu and it would have been heavenly, but gluttonous. By the end of the evening, a storm has whipped up, so Flo and I retreat to our suite and make several failed attempts to light a fire… never mind though, because Frank is on his way over to do it for us.
Breakfast begins with a pair of excellently drafted oat flat whites. The buffet table is a hearty spread of yoghurt and mueslis served with a cornucopia of toppings; toasted hazelnuts, dried pears, caramelly dates, walnuts and coconut. There are a range of home squeezed juices and freshly baked mini pastries. There’s a boiled egg and toast station with an enormous jar of Nutella. Yippee.
From the menu, I opt for Harrissa Baked Eggs which comes with a zingy dressing and crunchy sour dough. Flo picks The Full English… sausage, bacon, eggs, mushroom, tomato and a piece of pork belly. Having already enjoyed pork for dinner, it’s a pork-heavy dish, but I still manage to lament the lack of black pudding from the sidelines.
Spa
The Herb House Spa features indoor, outdoor and hydrotherapy pools, a sauna/steam with a view of a Japanese-style Garden. There is a fully equipped gym that plays host to a range of classes, so be sure to pack suitable attire to work off that big dinner. We don’t, but…
I’m lucky enough to experience an Ayurvedic massage with the highly experienced Sheena. Following a quick consultation, she douses me head to toe in a warm, spicy oil. Honestly, if the treatment had ended there, I’d have been happy (there’s nothing nicer for weary January joints). But on we go, and it’s clear that Sheena is dedicated in her mission to rid me of every single knot in my upper back. By the time she has finished, I’m 80% calmer and 20% taller.
Should you prefer to get out into nature for your R&R, the boot room boasts a collection of Hunters in all colours of the rainbow. There are bikes and helmets too. It’s wet, so we embark on a short wander into the National Park to meet the ponies.
Details
We have a wonderful time at Lime Wood. If I were to sum it up in a few words it would be, ‘decadence without pretension’, it’s an ethos that my companion and I agree to carry with us into the rest of the year. A stay at the 5 star Lime Wood Hotel is approximately £495 per night.
To book and for more info visit…
Beaulieu Rd, Lyndhurst SO43 7FZ
