The Credentials:
This former 19th century palazzo was once owned by the Maccaferri family, who offered shelter to the local community in the many underground passages that were dug around the ‘ice-house’ (storage facility) during World War II. Located in the historical centre of the city and right on the buzzy Via Indipendenza with its many boutique shops and cafes, the building has only been a hotel, with 86 unique bedrooms, for the past five years. Today, the stunning 1899 theatre has been completely restored and the elegant building fuses art nouveau and minimalism – and is brought to life with a rich art collection, live music, theatre performances and shows.
Dine:
The hotel offers the one Michelin-starred I Portici restaurant and a brasserie. We dined in the restaurant which is located within the spectacular and imposing Eden Theatre Ballroom, with its original liberty frescoes and a grand piano. We enjoyed the four-course tasting menu, with its choice of meat or fish, starting with an oyster palate cleanser and finishing with a beautiful plate of handmade biscuits. (€70 per person).
Each course was intricate with exceptional attention to detail and creativity – the meal has entered my top three favourite international eating experiences. Our meal was complimented by the sommelier’s choice of wine, a Ca Rugate Monte Alto 2010.
Breakfast is also served in the Eden Theatre but was slightly disappointing, offering a fairly limited spread of mainly processed (with the exception of the jams, muffins and cakes) foods. There is also the option to privately dine in the ice-house.
Sleep:
Our room was light, clean and minimal with simple Swedish-style furnishings; the minimal elegance enhanced the beauty of the original floors and ceilings.
We had a beautiful view over the Parco Della Montagnolia, (great for people watching). The bathroom was on the small side (no room for two) and had an odd plastic portable shower; I’m petite and I struggled to twist round to reach the bodywash.
I queried the reason behind this and was assured they are not there to stay, the hotel is still updating and all said showers will be replaced throughout 2013.
Who Goes There?
Europeans on business and groups of international friends.
Out & About:
With only one million tourists per year, Bologna definitely felt like a working city perfect for gastronomic indulgence.
A good starting point to explore Bologna is its historic core, the Fountain of Neptune. From here continue through the Piazza Maggiore where castellated medieval palaces bear down on three sides. Pass through the narrow streets of the old city market, the Quadrilateral for a foodie’s paradise.
Visit the beautiful Santo Stefano church and revel in the intricate detail – it appears as one church but there are actually seven. There were some very persistent beggars inside the church during my visit and few tourists or locals so I made a submissive retreat.
The most prominent landmark is the two towers, which are the highest of the 20 remaining towers from medieval times. Take the 498 warped wooden steps up for a fantastic city view.
There are lots of great local restaurants just South of the Piazza Maggiore. Drogheria della rosa on Via Cartolerie was a winner for food and service.
The Best Thing:
The dinner in The Eden Theatre and the historical delights of the building.
The Worst Thing:
The portable shower.
The Details:
Rooms from €80.
