What They Say
Great Fosters
Great Fosters is our endlessly charming Tudor estate steeped in royal history and located just outside of Windsor in the heart of Surrey. Set in 50 acres of iconic gardens and grounds, complete with listed parterres, a fountain, a Saxon moat, a Japanese bridge and even a sundial gifted to the estate by Sir Francis Drake himself, the instantly recognisable red-brick facade and chimney tops of Great Fosters is a sight to behold indeed.
The Tudor Pass
The Tudor Pass, which has just been awarded a Michelin star, is an intimate, gastronomic restaurant with only seven tables and is open Wednesday – Saturday for both lunch and dinner. The reimagining of an icon, The Tudor Pass is a new chapter in the storied history of this special restaurant, named so to celebrate the unique interactive service style diners can expect – without the noise of an open kitchen – and it is led by Executive Head Chef, Alex Payne.
The Credentials
The Great Fosters has a grand entrance fit for a monarch. My guest and I stop in awe as we enter the drive of Henry VIII’s former hunting lodge. The aesthetics are an odd but enticing juxtaposition of Tudor architecture with subtle additions of curated modern art by the likes of artists such as Rick Kirby and Andrea Jones: a statue here, a painting there or an orb in the distance.
As we arrive through the original restored (and tiny!) wooden door at the reception, we are offered a detailed tour by the charming doorman, Joe.
The building boasts 50+ acres of land, which contains (not limited to): a Tithe Barn, Orangery and conservatory (where weddings and events are regularly hosted); tennis courts; a beautiful lake; kitchen garden; a plethora of modern art installations; a swimming pool, treatment room, hot tub and outdoor bar. In every corner of the grounds, there’s something to marvel at, from water features to a moat featuring resident geese, and a maze.
Sleep
We stayed in the Marlborough Suite, which is just a short walk from the main building down a path of similar-style cottage-like lodgings. This section of the grounds was newer than the main part, with the neat and clean feeling of something less lived in, yet still keeping with the period. External classic Tudor windows encased the modern interiors of all the buildings. It felt like we were in a small Tudor village, with herbs and plants neatly bedded along the sides of each dwelling. It almost felt like being on a film set for some fabulous BBC adaptation.
Our suite was warm and bright, filled with dusty pinks and forest greens. A large wooden country-style table stood as the centrepiece, and a separate dressing room with all the trimmings veered off to the left. There was top-notch coffee, tea and juice included in the room and the bathroom, which was nearly the same size as the bedroom, included a deep modern bath in the centre, a separate walk-in shower, his-and-hers sinks and greenery dotted around the outskirts.
We were also lucky enough to have a peek at some of the rooms in the main building. These are the oldest rooms on site and have been restored with absolute delicacy. Words don’t do the Italian Suite justice. The furniture, some of which had been brought over from Italy in the 1700s, encased the room with such splendour that my jaw actually dropped to the floor as I entered. The Tapestry room was stunning too, filled with Flemish tapestries from the 1700s, and the craftsmanship that went into the door frames and ceilings in both rooms was something I doubt I’ll ever see up close for a long time coming.
Dine
The Tudor Pass is also situated in the main building, with a beautiful fireplace and ancient tapestries over the stone walls. The seven-course tasting menu was expertly presented by Alex Payne’s team throughout the evening.
We start with tasters of Crab pastry, a chicken liver parfait presented beautifully as a Jammy Dodger, veal with a kimchee glaze (my personal favourite of the lot) and cream cheese pastry. We were told to eat them all in a specific order as each bite intensified until the final act, which was a palate cleanser. This taster acted as a promise from Alex and team: we were in for a culinary treat.
The first course was a St. Austell Bay mussel in a wonderfully creamy sauce mixed with tart apple and cucumber. It was meaty and flavoursome, the perfect starter dish, and I will certainly be seeking out poached muscle again. The next was a selection of English Heritage beetroot, all cooked in different ways to bring out a variety of versatile flavours from the vegetable. It came with a horseradish parfait and Dill emulsion and was garnished with fresh dill and candied walnuts. The base of the beetroot mixed with the crunch of the walnuts, plus the subtle kick of the horseradish made this a truly excellent dish.
We then had a quick break with milk bread cooked with onion (a bit like a brioche) served with Irish salted butter with a caramel glaze, and beef dripping with jelly. I could have eaten 2 more portions of this if I wasn’t well aware that we weren’t even halfway through!
The next course was pigeon rolled in pancetta, stuffed with a truffle mouse and topped with a truffle jus gras. Every time I’ve had pigeon I’ve been pleasantly surprised at the full, meaty flavour, but the truffle (as it often does) upped the ante even more.
The next dish Skrei cod with cauliflower, velvet crab, monks beard and caviar. This is a delicious seafood dish, a little on the salty side, but incredibly indulgent and satisfying.
The highlight of my night was the main dish: Creedy Carver duck on a bed of red cabbage, with turnip pure and Timur pepper. My guest, on the other hand, loved the pot that came with it: a hearty braised duck with foam, hazelnut and pickled raisins.
The pre-dessert was rhubarb granita (which arrived in a sea of smoking ice). The dish also included Tonka bean ice cream and a biscuit crumble. It had all the wonders of a rhubarb and custard dish, tangy and creamy – a sheer delight for the senses.
The dessert was Macae chocolate mouse with mandarin jelly, a tuile and English tea ice cream. I’m normally not a fan of orange-chocolate dishes, but this was overwhelmingly good. The super-rich yet perfectly balanced flavours mixed with the grounding tones of the tea-flavoured ice cream; it was incredibly moreish.
The team have pulled together something truly splendid at the Tudor pass, and a mention deserves to go to our servers too, Chris and Alex, who made our evening extra special.
Breakfast at Great Fosters consists of strong coffee, fresh pastries, delicious sourdough toast, and all the trimmings. After last night, I haven’t got a huge appetite for a cooked meal, but in the name of journalism, I order some perfectly cooked eggs on a very lemony smashed avocado on toast and my guest has an enticing-looking full English.
Who Goes There?
It’s a relatively new re-opening (the hotel having been running since 1931) so, aside from their existing diverse clientele, I expect that in the summer there will be visits from spa-goers and wedding planners galore.
Out & About
The hotel is available from April onwards for spa-style days: pool and hot tub usage and a full list of luxurious treatments. The outdoor hot tub is available throughout winter but you need to book in advance. We braved the cold for an hour or so in the tub, which was lovely, apart from the getting-out part. It didn’t stop me from dreaming of summer though – the courtyard would be a thing of beauty in the sunshine.
The hotel is also near Runnyman, a National Trust site where the Magna Carter was signed. You’re also in an undeniably lovely part of Surrey, rich in places to visit and things to do, so you won’t be lost for activities as well as having easy access to town.
The Best Thing
The food at The Tudor Pass surpassed all my expectations, and I could walk around the grounds all day.
The Worst Thing
You can hear the M25 from the lake, which is what you would get from a country getaway that has incomparably easy access to London.
The Details
Great Fosters, Stroude Road, Egham, Surrey, TW20 9UR, 01784 433822
www.alexanderhotels.co.uk/great-fosters/
Room prices start at £325 per night
