The credentials:
Formerly the Hotel Moskva, which was designed by acclaimed Soviet architect Alexey Shchusev in the 1930s, the Four Seasons Hotel replicates the iconic façade of the original 1935 building. It opened in 2014 and now boasts 180 rooms and suites (in comparison, the original hotel housed 1,000 rooms), five restaurants and bars, plus a luxury spa and 24-hour gym. Its location is unbeatable: steps from Red Square, the Kremlin and the State Duma.
Dine:
A gorgeous fruit display provides a welcome to the organic-focused buffet breakfast at restaurant Bystro (where Russian cuisine with a Nordic twist is served in the evenings). The international buffet is complemented by a generous breakfast menu. Staff were keen and willing despite the language barrier (my pronunciation of ‘milky oolong’ caused much confusion).
Ironically, dinner at Michelin star-worthy Italian restaurant (boasting an all-Italian kitchen team) Quadrum was one of our Moscow highlights – the eggplant parmigiana millefoglie was the best I’ve had, staff regaled us with stories (there’s a mouse show as well as a cat show in Moscow, apparently). Admittedly, I was tipsy on my strong Negroni aperitif and thoroughly squiffy by the end of the evening.
Sleep:
Our Four Seasons Suite had oodles of space, style and show-stopping views of the State Duma, Manezhnaya Square, Alexandrovsky Gardens and more. An impressive hallway led to the open-plan layout with a living and separate sleeping area (including two double beds) connected to a powder room and a vast full marble bathroom stocked with Roberto Cavalli goodies (even the entry-level rooms feature spacious full marble bathrooms with double sinks).
Beautifully furnished, our suite also boasted plenty of mod cons, including two flat-screen TVs, a Nespesso machine and an iPad. Turndown service was excellent even if the staff seemed a little impatient for us to leave our rooms so they could get on with their work.
Who goes there?
Surprisingly, Americans make up the majority of the foreign leisure guests. It’s a hit with wealthy Russians, too – they made up our fellow diners at Quadrum. We spotted mostly Australians and Chinese at breakfast.
Out & about:
Many of the big hitters are steps from Four Seasons Moscow, including the Kremlin (note that it is closed on Thursdays; ticket office is located in the Alexandrovsky Gardens; and tickets to Cathedral Square do not include entry to the Armoury or the Diamond Fund); the stunning St Basil’s Cathedral; pretty shopping mall GUM (previously a state department store), where the ice-cream stands seem to be the focal point for locals; and Bolshoi Theatre (its neoclassical façade is depicted on the Russian 100-ruble banknote).
To see a unique collection of Russian art, ensure you book tickets for Tretyakov Gallery well in advance. Nearby Gorky Park, designed by avant-garde architect Konstantin Melnikov in the 1920s, offers fountain light and music shows, cycling, rollerblading, beach volleyball, urban and extreme sports, table tennis and even pétanque.
A tour of the spotless Moscow Metro, designed to be one big Soviet propaganda project and opened in 1935, is also a must for its stunning architectural designs.
The worst thing:
It was still the height of summer during our visit so I suspect Moskovsky Bar gets busier as soon as it gets cold. In the summer, the bar, despite its adjoining terrace, struggles to compete with nearby Ritz Carlton’s rooftop O2 Lounge.
The best thing:
It’s tough to decide between the hotel’s location, its Italian restaurant Quadrum and its spa.
My bespoke Amnis Renewal massage (11,500 RUB for 55 minutes) combined deep tissue, Swedish and pressure point techniques using an almond-based oil (I plumped for the lively 37-herb oil rather than relaxing lavender). Ask to be booked in with therapist Akila and make time for the lap pool in the glass-roofed (it’s heated in the winter so you can watch the snow melt as it lands) courtyard and other spa facilities, too.
