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Bovey Castle, Dartmoor

Devon's Bovey Castle offers Lena Chen a retreat away from the city hustle and adventures on the wild paths of Dartmoor

The credentials:

Even lifelong city girls like myself can feel the itch to get away from it all. Amidst a frenzied travel schedule, I partitioned off a weekend to enjoy the scenic quiet of the South West. It was a sanity-saving gesture and Bovey Castle was my chosen hideaway—a place where bird chirps would be the only noise pollution and anyone who wanted to find me would have to contend with miles of moorland.

Originally built as a country retreat for William Henry Smith’s family, the hotel is situated on a 275 acre estate on Dartmoor National Park, where cell phone signal is as sparse as the terrain is rugged. From hosting convalescing officers in World War I to operating as a military hospital during World War II, the neo-Elizabethan style manor house has lived many lives prior to its current incarnation. In 1930, it was reopened by the Great Western Railway as a golfing hotel and in 2003 renamed Bovey Castle after undergoing a round of extensive renovations.

Today a boutique property under the Eden Hotel Collection, Bovey Castle is comprised of 60 rooms and 22 lodges. Throughout the public areas, floor-to-ceiling windows afford views of the meticulously landscaped grounds. The oak-panelled rooms with their gentle archways and sun-drenched seating provide several private corners where you can enjoy a tea or a private chat. Isolation has never felt nor looked more glamorous. I chose a spot by the fireside to write a journal entry and a post card. (After all, no phone calls—and though wireless internet is available, writing an email seems wildly unfitting from such a locale.)

Sleep:

The newly renovated rooms at Bovey Castle boast impressive attention to detail, with sumptuous red and white bedding that invites you to dream away the worries of modern life. Stocked with Espa products, the spacious marble-tiled bathroom offers the option of a walk-in rain shower or a bath in the luxurious clawfoot tub. Ours came with a view of the grounds—a delight for the nature-loving exhibitionist.

Nearly twice the size of the bedroom, the separate seating area initially seemed excessive given all the time spent outdoors but it proved to be a peaceful setting for breakfast, drinks, or a movie. After a long day out, we kicked up our feet and whetted our appetite with a bottle of local gin. (Our porter cheekily advised us to call room service for a complimentary refill.)

Dine:

Due to the location, dining options are limited to the two on-site restaurants, Smith’s Brasserie and the Great Western Restaurant, which feature seasonal menus with an emphasis on local ingredients. The Brasserie, the more casual dining option, is a blend of the traditional and modern with sweeping views of the valley.

We started off the meal with rather standard salads. I ordered the catch of the day, a pan-seared salmon served alongside new potatoes, green beans, and capers. I was pleased by the presentation and texture contrast of the juicy fish and crisp skin. My companion’s steak was excellent quality Devon beef (though closer to medium than medium rare as ordered). It came with triple-cooked chips offering a satisfying crunch.

Local Salcombe ice cream was a delightful end to the meal, though my Eton Mess did not contain nearly enough berries or meringue to balance out the cream. Unlike the setting, it proved a bit too rich for my taste.

Whether you are taking in a midday snack or lingering over drinks, there’s no need to fuss about proper footwear or conversation volume at the Brasserie. For special occasions, guests can experience fine dining in a more formal atmosphere at the Great Western Restaurant, which also serves continental breakfast and a traditional afternoon tea. In the spirit of sustainability, the restaurants source ingredients from the moorland and coast whenever possible. The result is fresh culinary creations that also support the economic development of the community.

Who goes there?

Definitively a destination for leisure, Bovey Castle hosted an older clientele during our stay, with a handful of younger couples. As a popular destination for weddings, the estate can be booked out in its entirety for private events.

Despite striking me as more romantic than family-oriented, the estate features a selection of suites come with adjoining children’s rooms for those who seek to balance the demands of family with the need for privacy. Activities for younger guests are organised through the Bovey Rangers program, which teaches workshops on archery, boat building, float fishing, and rock climbing.

Out & about:

Getting in from London Paddington, you can take a minicab from Exeter St. James, or fly directly between London City and Exeter airports.

A litany of activities can be arranged through the hotel, from hot air ballooning to horseback riding. Designed in 1926, the 18-hole championship golf course (which our driver called the best golfing in the UK) is a considerable undertaking that will take up the better part of a day.

If you prefer a more self-directed adventure, grab a map and take a wander through Dartmoor National Park, which features a variety of paths suitable for any fitness level. The moorland is a unique opportunity to experience the wild English country within relatively secure conditions, though it is always wise to pay attention to weather and the onset of nightfall. A selection of Wellington boots can be borrowed from reception (in case you get stuck in bogwater as we did).

For deeper excursions into Dartmoor, car hire is essential. Just be conscious of the local customs and, ahem, inhabitants: you’ll encounter sheep wandering roads by day and sleeping on the tarmac at night (it retains the heat of the sun).

After a long day outside, tired guests can head to the spa for rejuvenation. Designed in Art Deco style and with a jacuzzi, sauna, and steam room, the Elan Spa is the perfect place to take a breather before dinner. The menu offers massages and holistic treatments, in addition to traditional facials, nail care and waxing services. We enjoyed massages that eased sore post-hike shoulders. Of special note is the space dedicated to catering to male guests seeking body treatments and grooming services such as a wet shave.

The worst thing:

Depending on how comfortable you are with being ‘off-the-grid’, the worst thing about Bovey Castle might also be one of its greatest selling points. Due to its isolated location, expect no cell phone reception during your stay. Unless you’re enjoying a company retreat, this is no hotel for the business traveller, so let relevant parties know before your arrival that you’ll be out of office.

The best thing:

If solitude is your cup of tea, then you’ll be glad to discover that the substantial grounds and surrounding moorlands give you ample opportunity for self-reflection and reconnection. From the doorman to reception to dinner service, friendly attentive service abounded and never verged on overbearing.

In a nutshell:

This historic destination in the South West retains a sense of its heritage while giving you every excuse to indulge in the natural surroundings. Whether you seek romance, solitude, or a family getaway, Bovey Castle offers a delightful retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. The best time to visit is June through late September, as the weather will allow you to enjoy the manor’s varied activities or to strike out on your own on an adventure on the moors.

The details:

Doubles from £179 per room, including access to the Elan Spa.

Dartmoor National Park, North Bovey, Devon, TQ13 8RE; 01647 445000www.boveycastle.com

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