The credentials
Birkenhead House gives luxury a whole other meaning. Part of the Royal Portfolio, an iconic group of standout hotels in South Africa, Birkenhead House is a paradise escape. Nestled on a cliff edge, overlooking the glistening sea that hugs the coastal town of Hermanus, Birkenhead House is full of charm, character, and elegance.
Having once been a ‘house’, the building still retains a homely feel, which the owner of the group and talented interior designer Liz Biden has given her unique stamp. Plush velvet sofas meet colourful, retro leather chairs, and compelling African paintings decorate the walls while vintage chandeliers hang from the ceiling. Think quirky opulence meets luxurious beach house.
Situated in the beautiful seaside town of Hermanus, about an hour and a half from Cape Town, there is plenty to do in the area and Birkenhead House is more than happy to arrange everything for you. From shuttles to the town (the hotel is about a 5km walk away from the central district) and wine farm tours, to shark cave diving and horse riding on the beach.
The experience at Birkenhead House starts the minute you arrive, with the staff whisking you away to your room, where a platter of fruit and a bottle of sparkling wine is waiting. And it only gets better from there. It’s an intimate stay, where guests and staff become friends. Many a glass of wine is drunk, delicious food eaten and special memories are made.
Sleep
There are just 11 rooms at Birkenhead House, each with their own unique character, thanks to Biden’s eye for impeccable interior design. The rooms are spread across three houses, which make up Birkenhead House. With so few rooms, the service is very intimate: guests actually speak to each other (if they want to), swapping life stories as they enjoy evening drinks on the veranda, against the pink backdrop of the setting sun.
My partner was lucky enough to accompany me on this trip, and we stayed in one of the rooms at the back of the house. I was speechless when I entered the room. Throwing back the doors I came face to face with my own private pool and to the right of me a large bed on a raised marble platform.
Beautiful artwork hung on the wall and there was a large bathroom with a deep bathtub, shower, and his and hers sinks. There’s no sea view with this room, but the pool and large outdoor space more than makes up for it – you’ll spend much of your time on the front deck, sipping cocktails and looking out to sea anyway.
I felt like royalty every time I stepped into the room. Probably down to the red and white colour scheme and vintage decor. There was always something new waiting, whether it was a bowl of fruit, a fresh towel or a pre-bed treat. The fridge in the room was regularly replenished with an array of spirits, local wine, juices and soft drinks. And you won’t be short of delicious snacks – although the chef makes sure you’re fit to burst at every meal.
Eat
When you book your stay at Birkenhead House, all food and drinks are included. Chef Clive and his team were in charge of breakfast, lunch and dinner. With Clive personally taking care of every guest, always popping out to speak to everyone individually, at each meal time.
Breakfast is served on the front deck, overlooking the ocean. Guests tend to take their time over breakfast. Sipping coffee (and sparkling wine), enjoying the timid morning sun. Guests can choose from Eggs Benedict, Royale or Florentine, French toast, pancakes, a basket of pastries and muffins, fresh fruit with yoghurt and granola, and of course eggs anyway. Smoothies and juices are also made to request – nothing is too much for the team at Birkenhead House. We’d often share the yoghurt and some pasties, then tuck into eggs of some sort – I usually have mine on toasted sourdough with avocado and smoked salmon. A glass of sparkling rose too? Why not!
At lunch and dinner, there’s a choice of three to four options. Usually a choice between fish, meat, and vegetarian/vegan. It’s a three-course occasion at both – if you want it to be. We enjoyed lunch in the outside area, between two of the houses, where there’s another pool, loungers, and tables and chairs under a canopy – it’s a little cooler here, which you need when the midday African sun is blazing.
We shared starters of prawn cocktail, with juicy fresh prawns, colourful tomatoes and orange segments, and perfectly cooked livers in a creamy mustard sauce with heaps of fresh parsley and a squeeze of lemon – both were delicious. I then had a piece of grilled white fish and salad – keeping it light knowing we had a Braai (A South African BBQ) coming for dinner. My partner had a Ceaser salad with juicy anchovies, crisp croutons and lashings of parmesan… and a side of chips. He also has quite a sweet tooth, so we ordered a chocolate pudding to finish, which was served with vanilla ice cream. Of course, I had to sample it too. And it really did hit the spot. Melted chocolate oozed from the inside. I couldn’t stop at just one bite…
Dinner is served in the glass-fronted dining room, which overlooks the veranda. After watching the sunset with a cocktail in hand, we moved inside for our epic three-course meal. On the first evening we shared seared tuna with pickled ginger and wasabi, and a beef carpaccio, drizzled in golden olive oil and shavings of parmesan. The tuna had a lovely fiery flavour to the outside and the carpaccio melted in your mouth. For our mains, we had Crayfish Thermidor, with lovely chunks of meat and spinach in a creamy, cheesy sauce, and springbok loin served on a smoked carrot puree with a chocolate-infused jus and stem broccoli.
And of course, there was dessert: a warm, nutty and rich chocolate brownie with a biscuit crumb and vanilla ice cream, and a frangipane sponge cake with almond, raspberries, white chocolate sauce, and shards of apple – they added a lovely crunch of acidity against the sweet chocolate.
The second evening was all about the Braai, which the chef set up in the courtyard. I absolutely love the smokey flavour cooking on a BBQ gives and was in heaven from the first bite. We asked for a bit of everything and our plate came loaded with prawns, crayfish, line fish, lamb, butternut squash and corn, all cooked over the fire. Yes, we finished everything, and still had room for dessert. Fig tart, with whipped vanilla cream and hazelnuts, and a trio of chocolate: chocolate mousse, chunks of chocolate chip cookie, and bites of brownie. We rolled to bed. Happy. Content. And in a food coma of ecstasy.
Out and About
You certainly won’t be bored at Birkenhead House. If you are into surfing, they have wetsuits, body boards and surfboards available for guests to use. And there are also activities close by that the staff will arrange for you, like golf, horse riding on the beach, whale watching, and my personal favourite… mussel picking!
Dressed in our incredibly fetching wetsuits, we went with the hotel manager, Craig, and another couple out to sea, to find the best mussels. We didn’t go far from the shore but the water is pretty cold as it’s the Atlantic, so wetsuits are a good idea. The hotel has a licence to pick a certain number of mussels per day so we scoured the rocks for the biggest ones. Once warm and dry, you’re then invited into the kitchen – cocktail in hand – to cook the mussels with the chef. He then jazzes them up and serves them to you for dinner – it was a truly unforgettable experience.
You can’t visit South Africa without making a stop at the wine farms – plural because you can’t just do one. Hermanus is home to many, as well as Hemel en Aarde, which is just a short drive away. Most people use Uber to get around but the hotel will also arrange a chauffeur if you wish.
If you love the outdoors, there are a few nature reserves you can go hiking in, just behind the hotel. And just a couple of kilometres along from Birkenhead House is a beautiful bay with golden sand if you fancy a few hours on the beach.
Most mornings, we’d get up early, hit the gym then take a short run along the beach before plunging ourselves into the freezing cold water. Most people thought we were crazy but there’s no better way to start the day – and work up an appetite.
You can get to the sea from the steps at the front of the hotel, which meet the coastal path that runs all the way to Hermanus. It’s a lovely walk, taking about an hour. A popular spot to stop for some lunch is Bientang’s Cave, a restaurant and wine bar with tables on the rocks, looking out to sea. There’s often some sort of entertainment going on in the town too.
And if all you want to do is relax, pull up a lounger on the top deck, order a cocktail from the bar, and tune in to the meditative sound of the waves crashing on the shore.
The Crowd
Rooms are for two people only, so the hotel is very much a couples retreat. Ages were mixed and everyone was there for a different reason; some celebrating special anniversaries, others just treating themselves to a slice of luxury for a few days. One couple we met was there for two weeks! They came a few years ago and loved it so much they booked again.
The Worst Thing
I don’t have a bad word to say about the Birkenhead House. Everyone was incredibly welcoming and went above and beyond to make sure we were happy.
The Best Thing
Birkenhead House have worked incredibly hard to create a home-from-home feel. It’s quite an intimate stay and the staff are like family, which really shines through in the way they work together and how they treat the guests. Everyone is special. Everyone is a friend.
The Details
Low season rates start from R4,300 / ca. £217 per person. The stay is all-inclusive of accommodation, all meals and drinks, a full mini bar, and an in-house shuttle to/from Hermanus town centre – it really is worth it.
Hermanus, Walker Bay Nature Reserve, South Atlantic Coast
+27 (0) 21 671 5502
www.theroyalportfolio.com/birkenhead-house
