The Credentials
Originating in the 13th Century as a lonely chapel on the West Sussex coast, then the holding of a French abbey (looked over by bailiffs, hence the name), Bailiffscourt is a fascinating creation. Though the estate presents as something of a medieval house and village, it came to fruition after Lord and Lady Moyne commissioned its building in 1927. The architect, Amyas Philips, had only restored one building previously to this – another medieval-style house – and the commission of Bailiffscourt, which would take him nearly 10 years to complete, would be his last.
There’s something wildly romantic about this story. There’s a dash of old Hollywood about it, where structures have been commissioned as recreations of historical moments. Though Bailiffscourt is nothing like what I’ve seen in California: it’s majestic and beautiful, and the work is thoroughly planned to perfection. It has nothing of old Hollywood’s (dare I say it) plastic and vulgarity (not that there isn’t a time and a place for that – there’s a special spot in my heart for The Madonna Inn). Over a decade, Philips meticulously researched the era, sourcing and restoring anything from furniture to original medieval church doors, to (literally) entire buildings, which he had transported across the country. Where necessary, he also created ‘new antiques’. It all went into the melting pot of what is now a glorious love letter to the dark ages.
Sleep
Upon entering the labyrinthine walkway to our master Baylies Suite, it’s easy to get a sense of the huge task accomplished when the hotel was built. Like comparing the roads of America to the windy paths of England, the architecture predates order, favouring medieval architecture and old-world charm. The windy steps are littered with mid-England references and allusions to times gone by. The rooms are just as beautifully maintained, with wood-beam ceilings sweeping high above your head, decorated with solid oak furniture and a heavily upholstered decor that makes you feel like you’ve been transported in time (caveat: modern facilities such as a Nespresso machine and flat-screen TV, though stealthily nestled amongst the splendour, are a dead giveaway). The Four Poster bed at the centre of the room opens up to a living area with a working wood burner, two incredibly comfortable sofas and an ornate chessboard. The bathroom includes twin baths, a shower and views of the countryside out of the stylised windows.
Dine
Before dinner, we take cocktails in the lounge area – a cosy set of tiny rooms on a walkway to the restaurant, where you can choose to have your meals instead, should you need some privacy.
Once we’re inside the main restaurant, we start immediately with some raisin and walnut bread paired with delicious butter, which is so utterly moreish that I end up ordering a second helping.
Then as actual starters, I order a perfectly cooked Cumberland sausage scotch egg with Jerusalem artichoke purée, pork jus and artichoke crisps. All this, mixed too with the tautness of the coriander seedling garnish, makes for a delicious mix of flavours. My guest opts for the pea and parmesan risotto with radish and pickled shallots, which is warm and soulful, with a beautiful summer garden feel on top of all of the filling creamy taste of a classic risotto. This is a moment of food envy for me.
For the main course, I order a meaty bass dish with a nourishing selection of buttery greens and a creamy piece of ravioli with goat’s curd. The dish is light, yet deeply satisfying in a nutritious sort of way. My guest orders the chargrilled fillet steak – a plump and thick cut, soft and expertly cooked, though a little under-salted for my guest’s salt-fiend taste buds. The chimichurri crumb on the top and blue cheese hollandaise are interesting additions that absolutely work. The chips too are excellent: triple-fried without being too oily.
For dessert, I go with the creme brulee, unusually thick yet still very creamy with a smooth consistency. The glaze is crystalline and perfectly gauged and the raspberry and lemon cream make for a nice contrast. My guest orders the baked dark chocolate tart, which is notoriously rich yet surprisingly well-balanced and full of flavour thanks to the addition of the apricot sorbet, creme anglaise and delicate biscotti in the shape of a leaf – delightful.
To drink we have a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, which for a house wine is incredibly impressive – full-bodied and satisfying. With incredibly full bellies, we finish our bottle of wine in our room, whilst playing chess in our fluffy robes by a wood-burning fire.
The buffet breakfast at Bailiffscourt has all the usual suspects: pastries, fruit, cereals and toast with more of that delicious butter. I particularly favour the porridge, which you can choose to team with whisky, cream and maple syrup. The yoghurt and caramelised prunes are more highlights, as well as the fresh orange and local apple juice. These dishes mean that, in a rare occurrence, the buffet ends up being my favourite part of breakfast.
After the buffet and last’s night’s feast, we order what turns out to be two (thankfully small) portions of full English Breakfasts, with beautifully seasoned mushrooms and some tasty poached eggs.
Out & About
The grounds have many hidden paths, including some with rope swings that access the beach walks. The place is just the right balance of curated and free-flowing, with rewilding at the edges and carefully kept flowers and lavender that cause a chorus of bumble bees as you walk from the main building to the spa.
The spa is small but luxurious, with an outdoor and indoor pool and jacuzzi, a steam room and sauna, and an array of treatments to suit every taste. There is also a room with free tea and coffee that backs onto a balcony overlooking the outdoor pool. The clientele is a mix of hotel guests and loyal spa members who clearly use the pool for regular exercise.
I was lucky enough to experience a full body massage during my visit. My masseuse, Angelica, listened to my needs and tailored my massage to the last detail. I nearly fell asleep on the table and afterwards, and afterwards, spent longer than I’d intended sitting blissfully with my book in the relaxation area.
The Best Thing
The peace and calm of the place is ideal for a country break.
The Worst Thing
One night there was just not enough.
The Details
Rooms at Bailiffscourt start at £325 per night
Bailiffscourt Hotel & Spa, Climping, West Sussex, BN17 5RW
01903723511
